“We have to get this,” I said.
My finger hovered over Boca-Rota ($27.95) on the Uncle Bo’s Pupu Bar & Grill menu. This appetizer has been a favorite of mine since my college days, when friends and I would have a girls night out at Uncle Bo’s on Kapahulu. So, I felt a pang of nostalgia while digging into it for a family day out at Uncle Bo’s Haleiwa. It was just as good as I remembered: Strips of prime rib sauteed with mushrooms in a creamy chile aioli (so it’s got a bit of a kick), and you eat the mouthwatering melange with slices of cheesy garlic bread.
The portion is large and meant for sharing, and what I love about Uncle Bo’s is that it crafts dishes with that in mind. Pupu are the stars of the menu, so we also got Uncle Bo’s dynamite shrimp ($21.95), which were tossed in a garlic chile aioli and topped with a Parmesan panko crust. Marrying the resistance of the aioli with the crunch of the Parmesan was a great choice by the chef — I just wish there was more Parmesan. I ate a huge chunk with my first bite and was sad to realize that was nearly all of the cheese.
Another appropriately apportioned appetizer was the Bo’s Big Nachos ($24.95). It came with ham, kalua pig, onions, tomatoes, mushrooms and melted mozzarella on a bed of wonton chips — or you can get it veggie-style with greens and avocado instead. This was a hefty plate, and it was best eaten at the table. We took home leftovers and the wonton chips got so soggy they failed to resemble anything starch-related. Good thing we had tortilla chips at home and could enjoy the surplus as if it were fresh from Uncle Bo’s kitchen.
I thought the Boca-Rota would be my favorite dish of the day, but my taste buds were impressed with Uncle Bo’s tarako pasta ($26.95). In this seafood selection, linguine was tossed with cod roe, and the Korean-style seaweed topping magnified the umami taste in the most elegant way. You’d think that two salty items would clash, but there was something about the preparation that made them sing when combined. This dish came in mild, medium or spicy, and the heat level was determined by the amount of chile flakes. If you’re uncertain if you can handle, you can ask for the flakes on the side.
Aside from pupu and pasta, you can get pizzas, sandwiches, soups, salads and brunch items (weekends only). There were also a handful of desserts — the Hobo’s ($13.95) basket of warm taro beignets with ice cream and a honey sauce sounded divine — or you can walk over to Matsumoto’s Shave Ice for a cold treat.
Uncle Bo’s on Kapahulu will always hold a special place in my heart, but the Haleiwa location has allures that can’t be beat. It’s cliche, but I really do love the laid-back feel on the North Shore. The people are nicer, the views are prettier and the animals are in abundance. During our lunch visit, a young chicken tottered in to peck around — much to my daughter’s delight and our server’s chagrin. The latter chased the little fowl out with a smile each time, but the little chick kept returning (I’m assuming because it smelled the delicious food and was hoping for crumbs to be dropped). Hearing my daughter’s laughter at the wild chickens made my heart soar and was the cherry on top to a great weekend lunch.
Was it a drive for our townie family? Yes. But was it worth it? A most emphatic, yes.
Uncle Bo’s Pupu Bar & Grill
Address
Haleiwa Store Lots
66-111 Kamehameha Hwy. No. 101
Phone
808-797-9649
Hours
2-9 p.m. Mondays-Fridays
11 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays
Website
unclebosrestaurant.com/uncle-bos-haleiwa
Food: 5/5
Price: About $75 for two without drinks
Ambiance: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Parking: Free at Haleiwa Store Lots
