On my list of favorite cuisines, Korean comes second only to Japanese (because if I don’t rank the food of my people as No. 1 what kind of Japanese would I be?). There’s not one go-to Korean dish that I gravitate toward because the beauty of Korean cuisine is that there’s so much variety.

So, when my husband and I visited ONKEE Korean Grill House, I went overboard when ordering.

My eyes immediately went to the sharable plates, namely the yukhoe beef tartare ($32), and seafood and green onion pancake ($26). At first glance, the former looks unappealing because the human brain tells us raw beef is a no-no, but ONKEE takes pride in offering only top-grade cuts. The seafood pancake was notable for its thickness and abundance of the good stuff. Instead of being caked in batter, ONKEE lets the seafood and veggies shine.

We also ordered the kimchi stew ($24) — it’s one of my favorite Korean dishes — and ONKEE’s, with its deeply flavorful broth and substantial amount of pork, did not disappoint.

If you’ve read this far and are thinking, “prices seem steep,” you wouldn’t be wrong. But this is not your hole-in-the-wall Korean eatery (although those hold a special place in my heart, too). Instead, ONKEE prides itself on offering guests a start-to-finish experience in modest opulence. The decor is reminiscent of Korean minimalism with earth-inspired wood, bronze, clay and traditional earthenware, and the service is first-rate.

I knew we were in good hands when I was introduced to our server, Tori, whom I remembered from a different Korean restaurant. She is always so attentive and genuinely caring, which makes her a perfect fit at ONKEE, where service reigns supreme. Unlike at typical yakiniku houses, for example, ONKEE’s servers cook and cut the meat for you tableside. It’s quite an art because they do so without being intrusive or overcooking/undercooking the meat. In addition, state-of-the-art grills suck the smoke, so you leave smelling fresh — as long as you smelled fresh when you entered ONKEE, that is.

So yes, the prices are a little high, but one bite of the washugyu short ribs ($68 for 6 ounces), dry-aged tenderloin ($58 for 6 ounces) or American Prime hanger steak ($42 for 6 ounces), and you’ll immediately notice the quality.

Try a variety of meats with Combo A ($110 for two people) that comes with hanger steak, rib-eye and marinated beef short ribs. There’s also Combo B ($190 for three to four people) that adds on a serving of tenderloin.

If you’re looking to splurge, I’d recommend the Miyazaki wagyu rib-eye ($95 for 6 ounces). One bite made my eyes roll back in bliss. It’s a hefty price to pay, but well-worth it in terms of flavor and caliber.

There are a handful of wines by the glass, and even more by bottle, but if you’re at Korean restaurant, soju is a must. Bottles range from regular soju ($20) to flavors like green grape, strawberry and peach. In addition to a few beers, there are also a half-dozen craft cocktails, like the not-too-sweet Lychee-Loo ($16) that balanced out the heaviness of the yakiniku with its crisp, refreshing finish.

And we can’t forget about dessert, though you might not have room if you ordered like we did. Vanilla ice cream ($6) is accentuated with olive oil and topped with rice puffs (it sounds weird, but trust me, it’s delicious), while the chocolate ($6) is decadent with chunks of more chocolate and a bit of salt to bring the sweetness to the forefront.

We’re already planning a return trip for my mom’s birthday — and we’ll be sure to ask for Tori.

ONKEE Korean Grill House

Address 
Ko¯‘ula
1000 Auahi St. 2F, Honolulu

Phone
808-312-3758

Hours
Hours: 5-10 p.m.
Sundays-Thursdays;
5-11 p.m.
Fridays-Saturdays

Website
onkeehi.com

Instagram
@onkeehawaii

Food: 5/5
Price: $$$
Ambiance: 5/5 
Service: 5/5
Parking: $6 validated valet parking at Koula; free parking at Consolidated Theatres Ward structure

Nicole Monton is the managing editor of Crave and contributing editor for Kaka‘ako VERT magazine. Follow her on social media (@nicmonton).