Ah, the good, old days. I remember when Beer Lab HI was my go-to place for unique brews in the University area and at its now-closed Waipio location. It was a time in my life when the focus was beer, and the menu of comestibles played second fiddle to small-batch pilsners, IPAs and the like. But now, we’re in the good, new days, as the business has expanded to include impressive food menus and a couple of new locations.
Don’t worry, Beer Lab HI locations still feature a rotating mix of brews, but this review is strictly about the food at The HALL by Beer Lab HI at Pearlridge Center, which also serves wines, cocktails and spirits.
I was surprised to see a lot of young families there on a recent weekend, but I should have expected it. Pearlridge is a hub for families (including the Montons, who frequent the mall at least a few times a month), and there were at least four babies/young toddlers dining at The HALL the same time as us. It spoke volumes about the restaurant’s family-friendly atmosphere and service, to which I can attest. However, there was only one high chair and we were not the lucky family that procured it. This meant tag-team dining on bar stools, which was fine, except for the fact that I ordered the burger and burgers are hard to eat and messy, even more so when you have a toddler on your lap.
The HALL Burger ($18), though, was worth it. It’s a half-pound Kauai-raised beef patty with provolone cheese, greens, caramelized onions and housemade aioli between two toasted brioche buns — all simple ingredients that combine for a high-class hamburger.
And even though my burger came with fries (you can also choose chips), we also ordered small versions of loaded tots ($9) and loaded onion rings ($9). In hindsight, we could have done without these items because our entrees were so hearty — my husband chose the pupu steak ($29) so he could share with our daughter. However, I can see the loaded tots and fries being great shareable accompaniments for groups seeking the true beer experience.
My favorite dish of the meal, though, was the fried rice ($16) with scrambled eggs. With any local-style staple like this, what’s considered “the best” is often a matter of personal preference. The HALL’s version is cooked in bacon and pork belly grease, which gives it that substantial, slightly sticky texture. That makes all the little bits of bacon, pork, fishcake and veggies adhere to the rice for a substantial bite. Nothing is worse to me than fried rice that’s so dry it crumbles when you try to pick it up with a utensil.
The first few bites hit me with a bit of nostalgia: It reminded me of camping with family friends over three-day weekends and enjoying bacon-fat fried rice so saturated with grease that I relished the thought of taking a swim after my inevitable kanak attack.
The only thing that would have made the meal better (besides the high chair; but I jest) was dessert, but sadly those sweet selections weren’t yet ready — notably, a creme brulee ($9) and brownie-ice cream combo ($9). This just means we’ll have to go back so I can satisfy my sweet tooth — and get more of that fantastic fried rice!
The HALL by Beer Lab HI
Address
Pearlridge Center
Mauka next to Gomatei
98-1005 Moanalua Road No. 884, Aiea
Phone
808-762-0027
Hours
Breakfast hours:
8-11 a.m. breakfast Thursdays-Sundays (10:45 a.m. last call)
Lunch/dinner hours:
11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Mondays-Thursdays;
11 a.m.-midnight
Fridays-Saturdays;
11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sundays
Website
beerlabhi.com/pearlridge
Service: 5/5
Ambiance: 4/5
Food: 4/5
Parking: Free at Pearlridge
