Locals may insist (politely, of course) that Toronto doesn’t belong atop any traveler’s wish list, but don’t fall for that Canadian modesty. Proudly multicultural with an outstanding art scene, fantastic food and a patchwork of diverse neighborhoods to explore, this sprawling city — Canada’s most populous — has more to offer than one could possibly digest in a single weekend. But that’s enough time to sample the local smorgasbord, from the many restaurants and shops to the latest art exhibitions and a newly revitalized landmark theater. Beyond the downtown core, find beaches in the east and drinking and dining hot spots in the west.

ITINERARY

Friday

4 p.m.: Wander the waterfront

Trillium Park, which opened in 2017 just west of Toronto’s inner harbor, remains relatively uncrowded despite having an outstanding view of the skyline. From Queens Quay West, it’s an easy half-hour walk to the park along the popular Martin Goodman Trail. After admiring the view of the CN Tower across the water, stop at nearby Inukshuk Park, with its 30-foot-high Inuit stone formation, and at the Toronto Music Garden, a grassy park where live performances take place during the summer.

6 p.m.: Enjoy a Chinese feast

Down the hallway of a nondescript mini-mall, a small handwritten sign on a door indicates you’ve found Sunny’s Chinese. Since opening in the eclectic Kensington Market neighborhood in 2022, this buzzy spot is packed with crowds hankering for a spicy, family-style feast. On a recent visit, highlights included the spinach and ­chrysanthemum-stem salad (12 Canadian dollars, or about $9), fiery dan dan noodles (CA$19), and what a server said “pays our rent”: the sublime Hong Kong-style French toast layered with black-sesame jam and oolong-infused condensed milk (CA$14).

8 p.m.: Surround in sound

In 2021, Torontonians applauded the reopening of Massey Hall, a landmark theater, after a three-year renovation. For over a century, this downtown concert hall has hosted top international performers, including Charlie Parker, Aretha Franklin, Gordon Lightfoot and Jon Batiste. The revitalized theater is now part of a larger performing arts complex, the Allied Music Centre, with a new music venue and recording studios. One thing that hasn’t changed: the famously excellent acoustics. Upcoming performers: the Black Crowes, indie-rock group Waxahatchee and Canadian singer-songwriter Bruce Cockburn.

Saturday

10 a.m.: Hit the farmers market

A former quarry and brick factory have been repurposed as Evergreen Brick Works, a cultural community center northeast of downtown. People flock here on Saturdays for the year-round farmers market, which reflects the diversity of the city itself. In addition to the usual market stalls, vendors sell prepared foods that include Persian baklava, Swedish pastries and Tibetan momos (try the beef ones doused with hot sauce; CA$11.50 for five).

Noon: Explore two museums

Many visitors prioritize the best-known museums, but that would mean missing niche standouts such as the Gardiner Museum, which specializes in the artistry and craft of ceramics (admission, CA$15). Then continue to the Bata Shoe Museum, where an unexpectedly fascinating, two-floor exhibit traces the history of what we put on our feet (admission, CA$14).

2:30 p.m.: Shop for rare titles

Little Portugal is packed with quirky independent shops and galleries, many conveniently clustered along Dundas Street West. Start at Easy Tiger Goods, a sunny boutique that sells cute made-in-Toronto ceramics. Peruse the rare print titles at Issues Magazine Shop, then shop for hand-crocheted coasters and embroidered tote bags at Etc Home. Nearby, Zaal Art Gallery showcases art and fashion from contemporary Iranian artists. Continue to Bad Attitude Bread, a vegan bakery, for an Old Bay-seasoned, cheddar- flavored biscuit (CA$5), and to Milky’s cafe for a spiced maple syrup latte (CA$6.50).

4 p.m.: Tap into Toronto’s art scene

An excellent primer on what’s happening in the city’s art scene is now on display at the Museum of Contemporary Art Toronto in the Lower Junction Triangle neighborhood. The exhibition, “Greater Toronto Art 2024,” is the second installment of the museum’s triennial and features a range of artwork and performances, including photographs by American-born artist June Clark of her adopted home of Toronto; a site-specific greenhouse installed by Lotus L. Kang; and sculptural drawings, traced from an heirloom Persian rug, from Sukaina Kubba, an Iraqi-born Canadian artist (through July 28; admission, CA$14).

7:30 p.m.: Enjoy roast chicken

Roast chicken and local produce are the winning formula at Taverne Bernhardt’s, a cozy neighborhood bistro on a quiet lane south of Dundas Street West. The short seasonal menu recently included tender roasted carrots with herbs and tahini (CA$20), in addition to the crisp-skinned, rotisserie-­style chicken served on a platter with thick-cut fries, coleslaw and pickles, toasted sesame-seed buns, and a side of gravy (CA$37). And for dessert, there’s a heaping swirl of soft serve in changing flavors, like Earl Grey (CA$14).

10 p.m.: Discover nightlife

Exploring Toronto’s nightlife could mean ice bathing at Othership, a sociable sauna downtown, or sipping a white stout at Blood Brothers Brewing in the revitalized northwestern warehouse district. But you needn’t venture that far after dinner to find appealing options. It’s a short walk from Bernhardt’s to Cry Baby Gallery, an art space where a curtain in the back hides a moody cocktail bar serving spicy mezcal margaritas (the best is the passion-fruit version, CA$20). Even closer is Bowie, a vibey lounge beneath a laundromat, accessible via an unmarked entrance (down the alley, below the neon bow-tied mouse sign). When you get there, try a pink Paloma cocktail (CA$16).

Sunday

8:30 a.m.: Stroll the beach(es)

The ocean may be hundreds of miles away, but you can still start the day with a walk on the beach. On the east side of the city, an easy streetcar ride from downtown, the neighborhood abutting Lake Ontario is known as the Beaches (or the Beach, depending on whom you ask) because of its long, sandy shoreline. Head down to the water to join locals walking their dogs through the sand.

10:30 a.m.: Order comfort food

When hunger strikes, hop back on the streetcar headed west to the White Lily Diner, an all-day restaurant in the Riverside neighborhood. One must-order is the cheesy patty melt, served with poblano relish on housemade bread (CA$23.25), which comes with a side salad of crisp greens from the restaurant’s own White Lily Farms. This snug locale has limited seating, so there’s often a wait. But I’d gladly do so for the fluffy buttermilk griddle cakes with maple syrup (CA$16.25).

12:30 p.m.: Admire art

Yes, it’s a trek to the McMichael Canadian Art Collection, about 17 miles northwest of downtown. But there’s no better place to become acquainted with some of Canada’s most influential artists: Tom Thomson and the Group of Seven, a collective of landscape painters; Lawren Harris; and A.J. Casson. Then visit galleries dedicated to contemporary Canadian works, including those by Inuit and First Nations artists, such as the brilliantly colorful paintings of Norval Morrisseau.

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