The term “house wine,” like many other phrases in the wine lexicon (I’m looking at you “natural wine”) takes on very different meanings depending on the context.
Historically, “house wine” usually referred to a restaurant’s cheapest by-the-glass/carafe/jug selection, often with important details like grape, region and producer omitted.
For less discerning establishments, house wine offers an opportunity to mark up a wine that consumers are unfamiliar with to drive volume and profit. Sometimes, less nefariously, wines are chosen to pour as a “house wine” at a discount to make room for inventory that sells more frequently as a way to cut losses of a bet on a selection that didn’t gain traction.
Today, as consumers become more educated and restaurants invest more into their beverage programs, “house wine” is shedding its once-stained reputation.
House wines are no longer relegated to the cheapest option. Some restaurants will source private labels, a custom-made bottling specific to the restaurant. I can still recall the sommelier spiel for Alan Wong’s private-label Riesling from Weingut Gunderloch, a wine that I swear was made exclusively for the iconic ginger-crusted onaga with miso sesame vinaigrette.
Some house wines are now often selected with the food as the main factor. Regionally focused restaurants will choose house wines grown in the same region that has a geographical affinity with the food. Istanbul Hawaii is a perfect example of this trend, and a fantastic meal, in this writer’s opinion.
House wine is now seen as an opportunity to showcase interesting things. You might get a special insert in your beverage menu or read about various selections on a chalkboard like you would a soup du jour.
Most house wines are no longer nameless, faceless selections used to make a quick buck. Some of the best house wines I’ve tried are from under-the-radar grapes and places. After all, the best qualities of house wines are that they are inexpensive (little known grapes can’t command a high price tag) and unexpected, like a fukubukuro you can enjoy year-round.
House wines can often refer to a wine that you love so much, you order it in bulk and drink it in the comfort of your own home.
This month, I am exposing my personal house wine. I like it because it can be enjoyed with any food, during any day of the week, and often consumed in large quantities since it doesn’t break the bank. It’s bottled in a 1-liter bottle format, rather than the standard 750ml, which is key for those days when I need an extra glass.
Berger, Gruner Veltliner, Austria
I get it: Gruner Veltliner doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue. I’ve met two people named “Chardonnay” in my life, and I could be out of touch, having never visited Austria, but if your name is Gruner Veltliner, your parents probably had some real demons. Yet, while Gruner is undiscovered by the public, it is loved by sommeliers because of its versatility at the table and overall deliciousness. Berger’s version, a crisp unoaked white wine, has the tell-tale Gruner aromas of white pepper, snap peas and crushed citrus. A perfect “house white.”
Cost: $16/1-liter.
Berger, Zweigelt, Austria
The most widely planted red grape in Austria, Zweigelt is a deep, juicy red bursting with crunchy red fruit flavor. Berger’s version is crafted from their organically maintained vineyards at the hilly tops of their vineyards, resulting in lusher fruit.
It will surely please the pinot noir lover and can be placed confidently among any wine at this price in the world.
Cost: $17/1-liter.
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning master sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Watch him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
