Honolulu Star-Advertiser

Monday, July 15, 2024 80° Today's Paper


This Eatery Is My ‘Kapa’ Tea

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Photo by Nicole Monton

Puns have been called a lazy form of humor, but I think the opposite. They’re witty and wonderful, and I enjoy chuckling at the well-thought-out ones. It’s why I was drawn to the menu at Kapa Hale. Well, that, and the fact that it’s a two-time Honolulu Star-Advertiser Ilima Award winner — publisher’s award (2021) and best restaurant east region (2023). And it holds those distinctions with good reason.

Kapa Hale is the delicious brainchild of chef/owner Keaka Lee, who expertly marries local comfort foods with elevated preparations. The menus feature homegrown ingredients wherever possible. Seriously, nearly every dish has at least one ingredient from a local farm or purveyor, which I love. Well, that and the puns.
My family and I went for brunch one weekend, eager to try this award-winning restaurant. I admit that I overindulged, but with many good things on the menu, it’s hard to order modestly.

We started with the Naan Ya Business ($10) that features garlic naan served alongside a tikka masala curry and Sumida Farm watercress namul. Normally, appetizers whet one’s appetite for the entree to come, offering mild flavors that give diners something to munch on. But not this app. The curry flavor was bold at first but not overpowering, and the crunchy watercress added a nice texture to even out the dish. I let my daughter try some, and she ended up loving it as much as I did.

We also opted for the Corny Bread ($8) covered in lilikoi and honey. The hallmark of a good cornbread is when it’s grilled on all sides, and Kapa Hale knows what’s up. This one comes with two pieces, which my husband and I shared, but I could have eaten a whole order myself.

On the brunch menu, like its lunch and dinner menus, there’s a V is for Vegetable section featuring veggie-centric meals. I initially thought of skipping this section, but the cauliflower ($14) called to me. This one had no pun name, so I made up my own: Perks of Being a Cauliflower. It kind of matches because the robust tang of it will perk you right up. It’s made with grapefruit, anchovy chile-garlic and capers, all among my favorite foods. Again, we did the daughter taste test, and she loved this, too — much to my chagrin because I had to share a good amount with her.

For my main, I had my heart set on one of the pun-inspired dishes, like the I’ve Benedicted To You ($18) eggs Benedict or Green Eggs & Ham ($20) with Kolea Farm green garic verde and grilled pork belly. At the last minute, I opted for the okonomiyaki omelet ($18). It’s noodles, cheddar, lomi lomi tomato, cabbage, aioli and bonito prepared in a beautiful pancake-esque creation. My husband ordered the KFC chicken and waffle ($20) — aka Keaka’s fried chicken —that comes with country gravy and grilled lemon honey. The gravy was light and creamy, and the chicken fried perfectly, but my husband wished the pieces were bigger (they were regular sized, but he wanted more chicken, it was so good).

Overall, brunch was a great experience, made better by the beautiful decor and hardworking staff. My only gripe is that I didn’t get to try the mushroom rangoon — hilariously called Da Goonies ($15) — because it’s only available on the dinner menu. But that just means we’ll be back soon.

Kapa Hale

Address 
4614 Kilauea Ave. Ste. 102, Honolulu

Phone
808-888-2060

Website
kapahale.com

Instagram
@4614kapahale

Hours
9 a.m.-2 p.m. weekend brunch; 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m. lunch Wednesdays-Fridays; 5-8:30 p.m. dinner Sundays-Thursdays; 5-9 p.m. dinner Fridays-Saturdays

Price: $$
Food: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Ambiance: 5/5 
Parking: Small parking lot or street parking 

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