I’m writing this on a bumpy plane ride back from my first trip to the mainland since the pandemic. I’m reminded of the many times I’ve heard of someone buying a bottle they loved at a winery, meticulously packing it in their suitcase, and opening it back home, only to be disappointed that it doesn’t taste nearly as good as the bottle they had on vacation.
Don’t be that person. The wine should taste better when you are at the winery, especially if you’re on vacation with people you enjoy, away from the stresses of work and the monotony of your daily routine.
It’s the same reason why opihi is so delicious fresh off the rocks (while on the safety of the shoreline, of course). The smell of the ocean, the sound of the waves pounding on shore, and the warmth of the sun reflecting off the sand, all come together to create an atmosphere that demands your attention.
I’m all for buying bottles on trips to bring back home. My favorite application of wine (besides helping me be less awkward at parties) is using it to revisit a specific time and place. It should come with the understanding that the bottle that I open alone after a 10-hour workday to drink alongside microwaved leftovers will be different than the one I had on vacation.
Here are some reds I enjoyed during my Napa trip that are now available in Hawaii.
Camino, Cabernet Sauvignon “Montecillo Vineyard,” Moon Mountain, Sonoma, 2017
Single vineyard cabernet sauvignon from the insanely talente Tadeo Borchardt, who has been the winemaker of Neyers Vineyards since 2004. Camino is his solo venture where he works with carefully vetted vineyards including Montecillo, farmed by Chuy Ordaz, a legend himself. Between its emphasis on quality and extremely limited supply, it’s a small miracle that it is available in the 808. Quaffable, savory and serious. I dare you to put this up against your favorite Cab from more expensive regions. Cost: Under $60/bottle.
Neyers Vineyards, Mourvèdre “Evangelho Vineyard,” Contra Costa County, 2018
The aforementioned (and previously highlighted) Neyers Vineyards made their “most successful version” of Mourvèdre in the 2018 vintage (still only a manini 164 cases). The Mourvèdre grape with its brooding rusticity and herbaceous qualities is known for its ability to tame lamb dishes, though Bruce and Barbara Neyers swear by its affinity with Asian shicken salad. Perhaps it is because the Evangelho vineyard is planted on sand soils that closely resemble a beach, which helps the grape retain freshness and lift. It will enhance just about any dish with a slight chill. Cost: Under $40/bottle
Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2019
Joseph Phelps was founded in 1973 and remains family owned. This is classic, consistent Napa Valley cabernet and the 2019 is already stunning in its youth. Its vineyards, the majority of which Phelps owns itself, is precisely groomed in part by the 2,000-plus sheep on property employed to tackle strategic plots at a time, and each block (only about three rows of vines) is tagged, tracked and tasted from grape to glass. Ashley Hepworth is only the third winemaker in the storied history of the winery. Cost: About $70/bottle.
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Watch him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
