Early during the pandemic, bars were toast, unable to open unless they could prove restaurant cred by offering both food and drink. At the time, it looked like opening a bar would be an extremely risky proposition going forward.
As it turned out, people in need of escape and stress relief found solace in alcohol anyway. Consumption between March and September 2020 increased by 14%, according to a Rand Corp. study. That number rose to 17%, according to a Harris Poll survey, a year later.
And just like that — based on necessity and the long-suppressed need to socialize — bars came roaring back, though in formats more exclusive or private, with impressive menus just in case another COVID-19 variant threatens a new round of shutdowns.
Interestingly, Foodland, already on a roll as a traditional grocery-turned-restaurant operator, entered the arena with its new whiskey bar and lounge Eleven, inside Food-land Farms at Ala Moana Center. The Bar by R. Field Wine Co., opened in 2016, proved to be a warm-up act that welcomed shoppers to take a break over a glass of wine with cheese and charcuterie, light bites and a cou ple of entrées. But sitting in the middle of a grocery store in full display while others shopped for their rotisserie chicken dinners or the day’s fresh catch was not for everyone. Eleven solved privacy concerns with an enclosed lounge adjoining the wine de partment. It’s so discreet that, save for a host stand during open hours, you might not even notice the doorway.
The entrance is a portal to a stylish world apart from the grocery store racks. The clean, minimalist setting assures all the focus flows to Eleven’s colorful small plates, glasses of ruby wines, jewel-tone cocktails and golden whiskeys.
The cocktails are intriguing, crafted by mixologist Matt Rosskopf to transport imbibers on a journey to other worlds, from the British Isles to the ancient Aztec empire, that inspired 400 Rabbits ($19), the bar’s signature small-batch cocktail. 400 Rabbits takes two days to prepare and you’ll receive only a small pour in a port glass, but it’s worth the dollars spent to sample this intoxicating golden elixir blending Tequila Fortaleza, Yellow Chartreuse and cacao liqueurs, fresh orange and lime juices, rooibos tea and goat’s milk.
The cocktail’s name is based on the numerous ingredients that go into making chartreuse, plus an Aztec legend of 400 drunken mischievous rabbit gods who showed up whenever people drank agave. The number represented their notion of an infinite number of ways to get drunk and this is a mighty tasty way of getting there. Mind you, I tend to favor sweet drinks.
The Moscow mule gets a local makeover as the Kakaako Mule ($11) that pairs cantaloupe juice with pineapple, ginger beer and vodka, plus the heat of serrano chile pepper.
Pandanimal ($14) brings out the coconut flavor of pandan leaves with more coconut, plus rum, crème de cacao, orgeat and pineapple juice in a seafoam green drink that tastes like a stronger version of a piña colada.
Timeless classic cocktails include a Hemingway daiquiri ($13) of Koloa Rum, maraschino liqueur and fresh lime and grapefruit juices, as well as an original 1935 martini ($15). And whiskey lovers have the most to celebrate as Eleven features an extensive menu of international labels, scotches, and American bourbons and ryes. Prices start at $11 per glass, going up to $104 for a 25-year Glenlivet single malt. You can get these simply neat or on the rocks, or in classic preparations from sour (add $2) to old fashioned (add $3) and Sazerac (add $3). For those who love visual drama, you can get it wood-smoked, served under glass (add $2).
For the money, I think they’d feel guilty about skimping on alcohol, so the drinks are quite potent. Small bites by Foodland chef de cuisine Rebekah DeCosta could help to slow absorption of some of the alcohol as savory ingredients arrive as flatbreads, served on some form of carbs.
Before you get there you could start with simple snacks of spiced mixed nuts ($5) or addictive popcorn ($5) flavored with bacon fat and tossed with toasted Parmesan and sage.
Otherwise, there’s nothing complicated about a menu that relies on the integrity of fresh ingredients such as ahi tartare (market price, recently $18) with slivers of kizami nori served atop a crispy rice cracker, or a butter-poached shrimp ($12) and tarragon salad sitting on brioche with a sprinkling of fresh peas and pea shoots.
Other favorite dishes included sake-cured salmon ($12) and coriander cream cheese with pickled cucumber and Everything Bagel seasoning on pumpernickel, and lacinato kale ($10) smashed avocado and white anchovy on garlic focaccia.
One of the more substantial dishes is prosciutto and asparagus ($13), these ingredients surround a centerpiece of egg-in-a-hole with toasted brioche and a heap of boursin cheese.
With many libations able to serve double duty as dessert, traditional desserts are unnecessary, but they do make a Sweet Symphony ($11) finish available. The dessert trio embraces the bar theme with a savory fromage panna cotta, “old fashioned” whiskey-infused cream puffs and mocha bonbons made with Hawaiian rum ganache and local coffee.
Eleven
Foodland Farms Ala Moana
1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu
Food: ***½
Service: ****
Ambiance: ****
Value: ****
Hours: 4-11 p.m. Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, 4 p.m.-midnight Fridays and Saturdays; after store hours, enter on Piikoi street
Prices: dinner/ snack for two with one drink per person about $65-$80
Nadine Kam’s restaurant visits are unannounced and paid for by Honolulu Star-Advertiser. Follow Nadine on Instagram (@nadinekam) or on YouTube (youtube.com/nadinekam).
