I had a childhood as typical as any kid’s and, in keeping with the values of Hawaii, was raised to believe that family time is important, especially during the holidays. Maybe it’s due to the copious amounts of booze I consume, but I can’t recall ever having a “traditional” Thanksgiving meal.
Sure, the standard fare was there, but there was always a big chunk of table space devoted to things that didn’t necessarily align with Turkey Day — rice for starters.
I understand that rice isn’t a great example, given it accompanies every meal here, a place where three carbohydrates coalescing on one plate is considered normal (try ordering spaghetti, rice and mac salad anywhere else in the world) but white rice was forbidden in my house, so I only had permission to eat it when others cooked it for me.
Gorging on complex carbohydrates wasn’t the only reason I looked forward to large family meals. Auntie Amy would cook tonkatsu for me and spaghetti for my cousin Summer. Uncle Pat would make his scrumptious garlic butter shrimp with cilantro, and Auntie Angie, collard greens from her garden. Even my mother, devoid of any culinary talent (her sisters got all the cooking genes and then some) would be constantly asked to make pumpkin crunch.
It was commonplace to have a pan of pancit placed alongside a platter of sushi, or a bucket of fried chicken. The spread was a microcosm of Hawaii’s melting pot, and everyone contributed, celebrating together — even though the only thing that really mattered was the booze.
Here are two wines that work with a wide range of cuisines.
Domaine Skouras, “Zoe” White, Peloponnese, Greece
The namesake George Skouras, opened a bootstrapped garage project in the 1980s and earned his respect of his peers, eventually becoming the president of the Greek Wine Federation.
His “Zoe” white is a blend of two indigenous Greek grapes (70% Roditis, 30% Moscofilero) planted on sandy soils and develops extra body and texture with a touch of skin contact.
Its gardenia and ginger flowers in a glass and its refreshing lime zest and sweet herb notes assist to lift any dish you can throw its way. Cost: $12/bottle
Catherine & Pierre Breton, Grolleau, Loire Valley, France
Some of the best wines with age I’ve ever experienced came from the Cabernet Franc bottlings of this producer. The 100% Grolleau bottling, a red grape usually consigned to being a small component of rosé or sparkling wine, is on the opposite end of the spectrum, crafted to be smashable in its youth. It’s insanely aromatic and drips with juicy red fruit (think of the way a cranberry sauce refreshes your palate) while still exhibiting a spicy pepper and herbaciousness. How these flavors manage to coexist in a wine that only has 12% alcohol by volume, is unfathomable. Its range at the table stems from a process called carbonic maceration, which increases fruitiness and lowers alcohol content, drawing similarities to Beaujolais, the standard Thanksgiving wine. Treat it like a rosé and serve with a deep chill. Cost: $26/bottle
Chris Ramelb is an award-winning sommelier, and director of education and restaurant sales manager of Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits of Hawaii. Listen to him on the “Wine & …” podcast, and follow him on Instagram (@masterisksomm).
