To be remembered, restaurants and cafes can get a jump-start on the competition with a name that’s clever or evocative. Aside from Olena Cafe being a pretty name, on first mention it does little to distinguish this cafe from any other. To add to confusion, another casual eatery named Olena by Chef Ron Simon already exists.
But it turns out olena (the Hawaiian name for turmeric) is not only at the root of the business but is also part of a family legacy carried from Okinawa about 70 years ago, when Yoshi Tengan arrived in this country.
With farming in her background, Tengan settled in Kaneohe and started planting. Among the food crops she planted was olena, known as ukon at home. She had grown up drinking turmeric tea and kept the tradition alive within her family.
Tengan’s granddaughter Jackie Toya now runs the cafe along with her mother, Helene Toya, and best friend, Kuuipo Akaka. “I didn’t like the tea for the longest time but now I love it,” Jackie said.
Her love of turmeric and plant-based foods began when she was a teenager watching her stepfather’s battle with cancer.
“I was eating really unhealthy food, but I became interested in naturopathic medicine and juice cleanses. My stepdad did chemo but he also started eating healthier and would do juice cleanses with me. That was 15 years ago and the cancer hasn’t come back.
“My grandmother is in her 90s and still in good shape. I don’t know whether it’s the olena, but when I tell her the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant benefits she’s amazed. She had no idea. It was just something her parents did. In Japan, before people go out drinking they do a ukon shot to prevent hangovers.”
Before opening Olena Cafe in February, Helene had been in the restaurant business for more than 30 years, most recently running Uptown Cafe in Chinatown, before its building was slated for reconstruction. Jackie’s interest in healthy dining convinced her mom to change course from a more traditional restaurant and bar to specializing in vegan cuisine.
Olena Cafe shut its doors a month after opening in response to the pandemic, but has reemerged into a new world, where many more diners are seeking healthful options.
Their motto is “Every choice you make is a good one,” which takes the guesswork out of ordering. It surprises me that there are people who do not know the difference between healthful and unhealthful food, who think they can meet their vegetable needs with a dose of ketchup or zucchini fries.
Olena contains medicinal compounds called curcuminoids, which have been recognized by the National Cancer Institute as anti-carcinogens. It figures prominently on the restaurant menu of food and drink, starting with a Golden Milk latte ($5.95) or a 2-ounce shot ($4). Both include coconut milk and black pepper. The fat in the coconut milk and the pepper both are meant to help absorption of the turmeric. The Golden Milk also includes ginger, galangal, cinnamon, organic coconut oil and local honey, tasting like a liquid version of a spice cookie.
Fans of acai bowls may be converted by the Olena Bowl ($12), which replaces the acai with a delicious smooth, silky blend of turmeric, spices and bananas. For some, earthy turmeric may be an acquired taste, but with the spices, sweetness of honey and fresh fruit, plus the crunch of olena- coated granola, the bowl could prove to be an aha moment for many.
Olena is also baked into a waffle ($11.95), adding dimension to this breakfast staple. It is served topped with bananas, berries and coconut whip, with a side of maple syrup.
There’s also avocado toast ($9.25) dressed with olena, or if you want to give turmeric a rest, there’s a macadamia nut- pesto version of the smashed avocado toast ($9.25) that had me wondering why I’d never added pesto to avocado toast before. It’s so delicious!
A BLT ($9.75) with “bacocon,” a “bacon” made with crunchy coconut strips colored with paprika, is the cafe’s nod to meat eaters. Jackie said many have been fooled by the vegan bacon. It tastes like coconut to me, but the crunch is there and texture is a big part of food enjoyment.
Wraps, coffee, teas and cold-pressed juices round out the menu.
OLENA CAFE
Kapiolani Residence, 1631 Kapiolani Blvd. (park in building or in Jazz Minds lot)
Food: ****
Service: ***1/2
Ambiance: ***1/2
Value: ****
>> Call: 941-9342
>> Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays to Saturrdays
>> Prices: About $20 per person
Ratings compare similar restaurants:
**** – excellent
*** – very good
** – average
* – below average
Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.