A few years ago, I watched as a young, very reserved assistant winemaker first smelled the 2015 Faury Condrieu (a viognier-based white wine from France’s northern Rhone Valley). I could see on his face that he was stunned, and that sense of wonderment grew with his first taste.
When I showed him the bottle I had brought to share at the event, he shook his head. He also grew and made viognier, but nothing like this. The wine changed the way he thought about the possibilities of this grape variety.
I enjoy teaching people about wines. I absolutely love seeing a light bulb go on, in a moment of wonderment that opens new horizons.
Another way to create such an aha moment is via a dynamic wine and food pairing that creates synergy, yin-yang dynamics and brings a smile to your face. These wines can do all of that.
>> 2017 Domaine Skouras Moschofilero ($22 a bottle): An ideal pairing for this aromatic white wine is a Greek specialty — pork souvlaki. While my wife and I were in Greece, we had the most incredible souvlakis on the island of Crete at a local farmers market. At least 10 vendors were cooking souvlakis at the market, but his was the only long line.
I watched him for some time, fascinated while trying to understand what made his pork so much more desirable to the crowd of locals waiting in the hot sun. He had simply marinated pork belly in olive oil with garlic and fresh herbs, most notably Greek oregano. On the grill he added some salt, pepper and a squeeze of fresh lemon, finishing with a sprinkle of dried herbs.
That was it. Oh, my goodness, what a treat. I can vividly recall the taste to this day.
Back in Hawaii, we featured a pork dish based on that souvlaki at Vino Italian Tapas & Wine Bar. The ideal wine we found to pair with it was this aromatic moschofilero — a match made in heaven.
Moschofilero is the name of the indigenous Greek grape used in this wine. I often wonder why other Greek moschofileros aren’t as good — I suspect that, like the souvlakis, it must have something to do with the hand of the maker. That certain touch. Whatever the case, try this pairing at home. It is pure enjoyment.
>> 2017 Champalou Vouvray “Fondraux” ($27 a bottle): Vouvray is a long revered wine appellation in France’s Loire Valley. It was along the banks of this iconic river that French royalty would build vacation homes way back when. It is also the general area of Joan of Arc’s crusades, and where Leonardo da Vinci chose to be buried. Yes, lots of history.
After 40-plus years of tasting, understanding and appreciating wines, I typically gravitate most to this regional wine of Catherine and Didier Champalou. I find it to be a marvel, like no other. I love its profound purity, fine detail, remarkable lightness on the palate, its innate minerality — all done without pretension or gaudiness.
This wine is produced from 100% chenin blanc grapes, although it shows few chenin blanc characteristics. It really is about the clay-limestone-sand soils of the vineyard and the masterful touch this couple has for producing one of the most compelling white wines in the world.
It comes at a remarkably reasonable price, all things considered, so it really is like no other.
Foods? This wine is tailor-made for lobster, scallop and shrimp dishes, especially in preparations using a little butter. Or, perhaps, sauteed fresh fish, finished with white wine, lemon and butter. This wine also would be an ideal foil for a salad of fresh greens with herbed goat cheese or roasted vegetables — or perhaps a Nicoise-style salad dressed with salt, freshly cracked pepper and freshly squeezed lemon.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.