A gastropub lives at the intersection of gastronomy and public house (or pub), where much drinking goes on. It’s a place where food and drink carry equal weight.
At a traditional bar, food can be an afterthought meant to sop up the alcohol in preparation for the next round. A restaurant can be the opposite, with a short beer and wine list at the back of an elaborate food menu.
A true gastropub provides a full, high-quality food and drink experience. That describes Real Gastropub, where the main draw may be a fulsome list of craft beers, but where the nondrinker can find happiness in a well- considered menu of tasty bites.
THE EXPERIENCE
The new Kakaako Real is a rebirth of the original, forced to relocate in 2017 by redevelopment of Ward Village.
Old Real was one of Honolulu’s first spots to offer a global beer selection accompanied by elevated bar food. New Real carries on the tradition, doubling down on the food.
Add to this the power couple of Troy Terorotua and Lisa Kim, who run their restaurant with genuine warmth and hospitality.
The new venue has a pub feel — with lots of wood, and a lively central bar. High ceilings and an open floor plan give it a spacious feel. It’s not bright in here, but somehow the room has a warm glow.
A few picnic tables outside provide an option for those who prefer fresh air. A long table in back near the beer tanks could be appropriated for a large group seeking a modicum of privacy.
THE FOOD
Happy hour, from 2 to 6 p.m. daily, covers eight dishes at $5 to $8 each, except the Kalbi Pub Steak, at $15.
Terorotua and his kitchen staff like to play with bold, vibrant flavors, but employ a sophisticated touch that makes for congenial noshing.
That steak dish is a case in point, ultra-tender with the recognizable Korean kalbi taste, but an extra oomph from a Mongolian sauce. It’s served over a bed of crispy long rice, a nice idea that lifts the dish with a pleasing crunch.
Lighten things up with the Pub Salad of greens topped with red onions, candied pecans and an extra dose of protein in a soft-boiled egg ($8). A vinaigrette dressing bears the slight sweetness of maple, a counterpoint to a zesty finish of Gorgonzola cheese.
We also also sampled the fish tacos ($7), a sprightly pair that can be ordered with the fish of the day fried or sauteed, and comes with a healthy handful of cabbage slaw and salsa of chunky fresh tomatoes.
At Old Real, deviled eggs were deep-fried, a popular signature. New Real ditches the frying and applies a dose of truffles and chives instead to create a comfort dish ($5) that’s a great, light companion for beer.
I’d like to have tried the confit chicken wings ($7), which sound intriguing, but we were too full.
THE DRINK
Real’s international selection of draft beers goes on for pages, and they’re all $1 off at happy hour. That’s for a full pour of 12 or 16 ounces, depending on the beer, with base prices of $8 to $14. Real’s own beer, Bent Tail, goes for $6.75. (The in-house brewery was named for the owners’ resuce dog, Bender, who has a crooked tail. He’s also the reason happy hour is officially called Yappy Hour.)
I usually order the 5-ounce tasting pours ($3 to $7), even though they’re not discounted. This is because I can’t make up my mind, but also because the glasses are so cute.
And the choices? How’s about Dead Man’s Hand, a stout aged in cognac barrels, from Belgium; Deftones Digital Bath, a hazy IPA from California; Against the Cacau, a brown ale from Brazil … and so it goes through 30-plus brews. Two Bent Tail IPAs top the list, with more varieties to come.
Wine is $8 (regular $12 to $15), but there are just five choices. Really, this is a beer place. If hops are not your thing, try a cider; a few are always on the menu. I had one made with marionberries that was tart-tasty. Call drinks are $6.
THE VERDICT
Beer lover or not, Real delivers a satisfying and edifying pau hana experience. In fact, it’s worth it to learn to drink beer, so you can fully appreciate dining here.
REAL GASTROPUB
Keauhou Lane, 506 Keawe St.
200-2739, realgastropub.com
Note: Validated parking available; first hour free, $1 second hour, $3 third
Happy Hour: 2-6 p.m. daily
>> Kalbi Pub Steak, $15
>> Small plates, $5-$8
>> Beer, $1 off
>> Wine, $8
>> Call drinks, $6
