The islands produce 5 to 6.7 million pounds of grass-fed beef for local consumption a year, according to the University of Hawaii’s College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources. That’s barely 10 percent of the demand, but companies like Kunoa Cattle Co., Hawaii Beef Producers and Makaweli Meat Co. want to change that.
“Hawaii can do much more, we just need customers to wake up to it and demand local,” says Kunoa president Bobby Farias, a third-generation rancher and champion team roper.
Sustainably and humanely raised, grass-fed beef means healthier animals and land, and better quality meat, Farias said, increasing Hawaii’s food security and putting money back into the local economy.
Kunoa, which raises cattle on 4,000 acres on Kauai and Oahu and processes livestock at its facility in Kapolei, just earned its Animal Welfare Approved certification from Oregon-based nonprofit A Greener World, which aims to change agricultural practices to achieve sustainability for farmers and ranchers.
That means auditors from A Greener World verified that Kunoa’s cattle are raised outdoors on pasture or range in accordance with the highest animal welfare standards in the U.S. and Canada. These include using sustainable agriculture methods on an independent ranch, and maintaining a harvest facility that meets criteria for best animal health and welfare practices.
Kunoa works with almost 50 ranch partners across the state and is now helping them to become certified by 2020.
“We believe in what Kunoa is doing,” says Robynne Maii, chef-owner of Fete, who uses only Kunoa meat.
For a small operation like hers, the higher- priced local beef is a real commitment.
“That means we don’t buy fancy olive oil — but it’s important to us. Relationships are important, and we are doing our bit for food security.”
BUILDING A BETTER BURGER
These tips from Bryan Mayer, director of product for Kunia Cattle Co., probably go against everything you’ve been told about making burgers. But his Kunoa beef burger, adorned only with melted cheese, is perfect — light, moist and beefy.
>> Fat and grass-fed are good: The perfect blend is 70% lean and 30% fat — the fat produces flavor. Choosing grass-fed beef is super important. Some people will talk about the leanness of grass-fed beef, but it can be just as fatty as standard beef, depending on genetics and how the cattle are raised.
>> Salt goes last: Salt reacts with proteins to bind meat together, which is great for sausage but terrible for a burger, which should be light and tender. Season your burger patty with salt just before cooking, not before.
>> Be chill: You want that meat really cold when you cook it. This keeps the patties intact and juicy.
>> Keep it thin: Mayer forms his burgers by lightly pressing a small, loosely formed ball of meat between two plastic container lids. “If you want more meat, put two patties on your bun.”
>> Forget the grill: Yes, you read right. Use a flat cooking surface, such as a cast-iron pan or griddle. A grill just incinerates the fat and flavor, while a pan lets burgers cook in their own fat. To add smokiness, put your patties in a pan and put the pan on the grill to cook, closing the grill lid.
