Success in one part of the world doesn’t necessarily lead to success in another. As difficult as it may be to deal with such physical logistics such as real estate, labor and location, there is also a matter of regional food cultures.

Yauatcha opened in the International Market Place three years ago with the intention of duplicating its success in London, with upscale dim sum and a late-night, singles cocktail scene. But Hawaii diners are set in their ways and dim sum is viewed as an inexpensive, daytime, family friendly experience. People accustomed to paying $3 or less per order were not going out of their way to pay $9 per order, no matter how good it was.

In a place where the cost of living is high, quantity over quality can be the prevailing mindset. Yauatcha closed after two years and in its place is Kaku’s Sushi & Seafood Buffet, from a company — Makino Sushi & Seafood Buffet — that understands Hawaii diners well. When I visited, a lot of families were there feeding many mouths relatively inexpensively, with variety.

Kaku’s predecessors were the Todai and Makino Chaya buffets created by Japan-born chef Kaku Makino. He worked for a catering company in Tokyo for 15 years before establishing successful franchise buffet operations, starting with Todai in 1987. Todai came to Oahu in 1999, followed by a series of Makino Chaya operations.

Kaku’s benefits from what its predecessor left behind. Of course the room is beautiful, with the Yauatcha design and furnishings intact. Logistically, though, the setup doesn’t work as well for the buffet operators as it does for customers. The central kitchen area is the most logical spot for hot dishes to be set up and it’s the spot diners tend to gravitate to most, for the typically pricier items.

Off to the far end of the restaurant are the loss leaders, the side salads, cold dishes and fruits that fill diners up inexpensively. But because the “good” stuff is front and center, people seem to be passing over these lesser options in favor of more costly selections. The salad bar lineup does include poke, but because there’s little lighting in this area, it looks pretty tired in the evening.

This is one of those places where, if you make the right selections, you can have a good experience. For me this meant focusing on fried noodles, sliced rib-eye steak, shrimp and vegetable tempura and snow crab legs (dinner only) with butter.

Also on the buffet line are sweet-sour pork, cocktail shrimp, fried shrimp (which looked delicious but were mushy), a beef stir-fry, panko- coated broiled oysters and fried rice.

But if you’re a true fish aficionado coming just for all-you-can-eat sushi, you’ll be disappointed. At $38.95 per person, the cost of about eight pieces of nigiri sushi at a typical sushi bar, you get what you pay for.

The only consolation is that you’ll probably fill up on hot dishes before your sushi order ever arrives. While the hot and cold buffet lines are self-serve, you can only get nigiri, sushi handrolls or sashimi by placing an order with a server. Only one order of sashimi may be placed per person, which amounts to two pieces each of maguro, yellowtail and salmon, and it’s only available at dinner.

If ordering sushi, you must finish each piece before being allowed to place another order.

The order sheet notes that, “Pictures and actual food may be different,” a signal that the pictures on the menu look a lot better than reality. No one would make such a statement unless they’re tired of addressing complaints. Of course I did not read that fine print, and when the sashimi arrived, thin, flat and dull-looking, the first thing I said was, “Hey, that does NOT look like the picture.”

Another station serves ramen, udon and dessert. I was too full to try the noodles, but dessert of a crepe with ice cream or fruit topping turned out to be one of the better things on the menu.

KAKU’S SUSHI & SEAFOOD BUFFET

International Market Place

Food: **1/2

Service: **

Ambiance: ***1/2

Value: ***

>> Call: 755-9898

>> Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m. daily

>> Prices: Opening special $21.95 for lunch, $38.95 for dinner; ages 4-12 $12.50/$25; kamaaina discount about $3

>> Note: 90-minute limit for buffet

Ratings compare similar restaurants:

**** – excellent

*** – very good

** – average

* – below average

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.