If you experience life through television or social media, you’d get the picture that society today thrives on discord, because every comment, no matter how well-intended, is likely to generate an antagonistic opposing view.
Thankfully, we can agree on some things — like, a list of quintessential Hawaii foods must include poi, kalua pork and laulau. As consistent as we are with this message, some things are lost in translation when different cultures are involved.
Fellow students in my University of Hawaii- Manoa classes on K-pop and Asian culture and history were surprised to learn that the two dishes Japanese visitors associate with Hawaii have little to do with our traditional foodways. For the Japanese visitor, Hawaii’s must-have foods are pancakes and acai bowls, and they must have them in the same way that we might seek out macarons and crepes in Paris, or fish and chips in London.
The first Japanese travel writers who discovered Eggs ‘n Things in Waikiki 30 years ago had a lot of influence over what became the must-eat items to complete a Hawaii experience.
Also on that list is steak, and the Zetton Group is answering that call with Aloha Steak House. The new restaurant in the Aqua Oasis Hotel is the Japan-based restaurant group’s third new concept in two years, following the farm-to-table izakaya Zigu and the intimate Paris- Hawaii fusion cafe.
ALOHA STEAK House reintroduces the idea of the casual beach steakhouse as introduced here five decades ago by the likes of Buzz’s Original Steak House and Chart House. By the late ’70s, steak was deemed the ultimate luxury for date nights and special occasions. Fine-dining establishments appeared to reflect this notion, from Hy’s in Waikiki, to Morton’s in Chicago and Ruth’s Chris in New Orleans. The latter two eventually became part of our local foodscape as well.
Although Aloha Steak House’s catchphrase is “beach and beef,” the beach is in ambiance only. The beach is three blocks away but the woody interior suggests a rustic beach shack that just so happens to have lighting that leaves no Instagram photo to chance.
The restaurant was created for visitors from Japan who come here to sample American beef (U.S. Choice black angus) in contrast to the fat-rich and pricey wagyu back home. Locals benefit from prices that are lower than at glossier establishments around town.
To start, executive chef Keigo Yoshimoto has come up with a short roster of all-American starters, including, in the evening, fried garlic-topped french fries ($6), head-on fried garlic shrimp ($14), juicy chicken wings ($10) that balance sweet and spicy elements, and a cupful of miniature corn dogs (pork sausages encased in sweet corn bread,$6). With enough of these appetizers, you could easily share a single steak.
One of the other quirks of Japanese diners is that they seem to be fond of fondues. This craving can be filled later in the meal with dessert of chocolate fondue and fruit ($15), or earlier with a small planter box of crudite, including tomatoes, carrots, green beans, asparagus and leafy greens, accompanied by a cheese fondue accented with Maui pineapple wine ($18). It may be one of the few times people long for more veggies to scoop up every bit of cheese sauce.
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IF YOU’RE ordering steak, it may sound like overkill to order the Japanese curry ($11 with rice; $10 more if you add chunks of tender beef short ribs), but it’s worthwhile to sample Yoshimoto’s smooth, rich version.
At this point you’ll come to the main attraction of U.S. steaks priced $20 to $30 less than at upscale steakhouses in town. A pound of butter- topped, boneless rib-eye ($39; $26 for half-pound) could easily feed two with appetizers and sides standard to any steakhouse coast to coast. At $6 each, these sides include butter-sauteed mushrooms, creamy mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, and a mac and cheese that incorporates Emmenthal, Parmesan, Gruyere, brie and cheddar cheeses.
There’s also tenderloin ($30 half-pound; $39 three- quarter pound), or for show, the tomahawk ($88), a machete-style, bone-in rib-eye that arrives on a sizzling platter and is sliced at the table.
All the steaks come with Yoshimoto’s signature ponzu-style sweet Maui onion sauce.
For the non-meat eater, grilled salmon ($22) is served nanban style, with pieces of egg mixed into a tartar sauce served on the side.
Kids are given special treatment with their own plate ($9.50), comprising a mini hamburger patty over spaghetti noodles, fried shrimp, rice and french fries, plus soft drink and toy.
Desserts include watermelon soft-serve ice cream in a green waffle cone ($7.50), perfect for what is turning out to be a hot summer; and Gorgonzola cheesecake ($9), with a honeycomb on the side that brings out the cheese flavor. I’m not a big fan of Gorgonzola, but it’s wonderful with the honey.
The restaurant is still in its soft opening, so much more is likely to come in months ahead, such as garlic-butter steamed clams, to add further enticements to what’s already there.
ALOHA STEAK HOUSE
Aqua Oasis Hotel, 320 Lewers St.
Food: ***1/2
Service: ****
Ambiance: ***1/2
Value: ****
>> Call: 600-3431
>> Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays to Sundays
>> Prices: Dinner $55 to $100 for two without alcohol
Ratings compare similar restaurants:
**** – excellent
*** – very good
** – average
* – below average
Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.