In Chinese numerology the number 8 is lucky, and 888 extremely lucky. Perhaps that speaks to the legacy of Longhi’s, which opened in 1976 at 888 Front St. in Lahaina.

Bob Longhi’s Italian restaurant was a go-to Maui dining spot for decades, favored for its classic dishes, heavy on seafood, that featured fresh ingredients at a time when much Hawaii dining involved the frozen and the canned.

The restaurant expanded to take over the second floor of the Front Street building, and then became a restaurant group, with locations in Maui’s Shops of Wailea and at Ala Moana Center. When Longhi died in 2012 his kids took over, keeping it in the family.

In 2016, after 13 years, the Ala Moana location closed and a new Longhi’s, at Ko Olina, opened. The remaking of Ala Moana had robbed Longhi’s of its ocean view, and the general disruption of construction chased the restaurant out, the owners said at the time.

No such problems at Longhi’s in Marriott’s Ko Olina Beach Club, so close to the beach that anything obstructing the view would just about have to be built in the ocean.

THE EXPERIENCE

The Beach Club is a “vacation ownership resort” — read that, timeshare — but the restaurant is open to all. Valet-only parking is $2 for three hours with validation.

At the last of Ko Olina’s four lagoons, separated from the sand by a well-manicured lawn, Longhi’s is not strictly oceanside, but there’s a water feature directly adjacent: a lovely, meandering koi pond.

The restaurant has a corner location, with vast patio seating wrapping around the bar. Indoor tables and banquettes accommodate those trying to stay out of the sun.

For something in between, take a seat at the bar, which is indoors, but open to a serene tropical view.

I’d grab a seat on the outer edges of the patio, along the huge pond. The view is pretty and restorative, and the colorful fish and occasional duck family provide entertainment.

THE FOOD

The happy hour menu offers six choices, priced from $7 for garlic fries to $12 for a cheeseburger. That’s a mighty fine cheeseburger, too — a thick, full-sized patty with cheddar cheese, garlic aioli and a handful of arugula.

I’d also suggest the Eggplant Parmesan ($9), with a bright pomodoro sauce over the eggplant slices and their chewy layer of mozzarella.

The chicken tacos ($10) looked like they would be a highlight, arriving in a pair with grilled chicken strips topped with guacamole, tomatillo salsa and pico de gallo. But the white corn tortilla was soggy, ruining the effect. A complaint to our server, though, resulted in a fresh plate. The components were separated so we could build our own tacos, this time with a bit more crunch.

Also served at happy hour are fried calamari and zucchini.

THE DRINK

A prime reason to visit Longhi’s at pau hana is the drink menu, offering $6 specials on any of seven craft cocktails.

Three refreshing choices are based on fresh lemonade: the Strawberry Fields, a candylike drink with strawberry vodka and muddled berries; the Beautiful Day, a lemonade-iced tea with lemon vodka and triple sec; and my choice, the Happy Hour Kentucky Cooler of bourbon and triple sec. It was lightly boozy and tart, with a fresh side of mint that gave it pop.

The Citron Bomb was delish as well, fruity but light, with lemon vodka and citrus juices.

If only we’d had the tolerance, the Bloodytini and Coco-Jito, mashups of classic cocktails, looked intriguing. Next time.

Select well drinks are mostly $5, up to $6 for Dewar’s scotch. Waikiki Brewing Co. beers on tap are $7 and wine runs $7 a glass, or $8 for sangria. A few tropical blended drinks, such as a lilikoi margarita, are $8.

THE VERDICT

The food is somewhat lackluster, but I could see walking off the beach to sit here in the shade with a cool happy-hour cocktail. Watch the koi and find your Zen.