Pizza is new at Il Mediterraneo Ristorante Italiano, where chef Fabrizio Favale has installed a pizza oven in his outdoor patio, with former Maui Four Seasons chef Mauro Gramuglia on board creating Napoli-style pizzas Mondays to Saturdays.

While a lot of pizza makers in town are using all the same ingredients, I have to wonder if what’s been missing is that last elusive ingredient, Italian soul — because Gramuglia’s is easily the best pizza in town.

I have tried his six main offerings, and would be hard-pressed to pick a favorite. They’re all good, from the classic Margherita ($22) of San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella and basil, to the MPR ($26), a combination of mascarpone, prosciutto and rucola (arugula).

Many are drawn to the combination of pesto and shrimp ($26), and no doubt the Romana ($26), with sausage, mushrooms and truffle oil is the choice of meat eaters.

More selections may be added, including one that plays off of the regular menu’s Ox-Buco, braised oxtail, combined with Parmesan and mozzarella, and is just as delicious on a pizza crust as on a plate.

Favale is always ready to sit and chat with guests, and after toying with the idea of retiring to Italy, he’s recommitted to Hawaii and will be launching a new Italian restaurant concept in Waikiki soon.

Mediterraneo is at 1809 S. King St. Call 593-1466.