In the Old World, especially along the Mediterranean basin, wine was an integral part of dining.
It still is. Through the generations, each region has developed food specialties, and along the way has figured out which wines add to the enjoyment of a meal. I believe regional foods also have informed local winemakers’ decisions on what to grow and how to produce their wines.
With the emergence in the U.S. of regional restaurants such as Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., in the 1970s (and later, Roy’s in Hawaii), the food scene began changing dramatically. And though it took some time, the wine scene started to evolve too.
In the case of Chez Panisse, as a server there once told me, “Our food is inspired by Provence, and that is why we offer so many wines from Provence.”
As Mediterranean-style eateries grew exponentially across the country, so did the availability and popularity of tasty, food-friendly regional wines, meant for gulping as well as accompanying the meal. Pure enjoyment!
That is exactly what wine should add to the dining table. To that end, here are some recommendations that offer great value:
>> 2015 Sella & Mosca Vermentino de Sardegna “La Cala” (about $14 a bottle): If you enjoy sauvignon blanc, consider this Italian specialty. It offers the same dry, remarkably light and vivacious personality. Hailing from the isle of Sardegna, close to the sea, this wine has riveting minerality, a lemony edge and a slight salinity, making it ideal for summer sipping. This is the very style of white wine served at Italian seaside cafes and bistros. It is brought to the table well chilled, to enjoy with seafood and for quenching the thirst. I give it an A+ in gulpability.
>> 2016 Fritz’s Riesling (about $15): This wine was created by the late world-class winemaker Fritz Hasselbach, a dear friend of mine. It captures his charm with an uplifting personality that generates an easy smile from anyone who drinks it. It is a slightly sweet, refreshing cafe-style German riesling, best served well chilled, making it ideal for warm-weather sipping. This offering works its magic with fresh salads tossed with light vinaigrettes as well as lighter seafood fare. It is tops in lightness and deliciousness.
>> 2016 The Palm by Whispering Angel Rose (about $17): Pink wines from Provence are currently a hot category, and one of the finest among them comes from the team at Chateau d’Esclans and Whispering Angel. The Palm is flavorful and effortlessly light, delivered with the winery’s signature style and grace. This is certainly a hard wine to beat, especially at this price. I suggest having it with light pasta dishes and Mediterranean-style salads such as ahi nicoise. I enjoy it with vegetable pizzas — it freshens the palate between bites.
>> 2015 Domaine de Fontsainte Corbieres (about $17): Wonderfully delicious and incredibly food friendly, this has been one of my favorite southern French country reds for nearly 30 years. It is an Old Faithful when we barbecue, toss up a vegetable pasta dish or cook fresh pizzas on the grill.
A light bulb went off for me when an esteemed wine friend asked to have this wine served on the rocks. It was an especially hot and humid August day so I wasn’t taken aback, and the wine ended up being refreshingly satisfying. If you’re the one handling grilling duties this summer, I suggest you do likewise. You’ll be glad you did.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.