Several months ago a reader emailed me about the hazards of using a mandoline improperly. Chef’n created a model to lessen the danger. The Pull’n Slice Box Mandoline has a guard that keeps hands away from any of its four blades (one-sixteenth-inch, one-eighth-inch, waffle and julienne) and provides a container to catch the slices.
How it works: Click your blade of choice into the sliding deck. Lift the protective guard and fit the deck over the container (this can be tricky at first; just remember to fit the deck from the opposite side of the handle, making sure the deck sides fall into the grooves). Snap the safety hood closed, then place produce in the hole near the center of the guard. Push and pull the sliding deck, and slices will fall into the box.
Does it work? Yes, but it might take practice figuring out how best to angle the produce while holding the gadget in place. This will vary by individual. I found it easiest to lean the produce against one side of the hole, pushing down to steady the tool while I used my other hand to move the sliding deck. Pulling the blade through hard vegetables like carrots and potatoes was a little tough on the first few cuts, but once momentum picked up it was a breeze. I did have a harder time holding the gadget steady when cutting the harder produce, though.
While the Pull’n Slice is much safer than a standard mandoline, accidents can happen. Your hand could get caught inside the hole, where the blade is, if you’re not paying attention.
Pros: Waffle fries! The waffle blade is my favorite; it works beautifully. The box container can be filled with water to help keep potatoes, apples and other oxygen-reactive produce from turning brown.
Cons: The julienne blade — I still had to separate the slices or the blade didn’t cut all the way through. The pusher (used to hold the smaller ends of produce) doesn’t have spikes to securely hold the food in place. I just ate those end pieces. It may be hard for some people to hold the gadget and the produce with one hand (it moves around as you push and pull); a suction cup on the bottom (such as the one on the OXO Tabletop Spiralizer) would help immensely. While the blades fit nicely inside the container, the item is still 11-3/4 inches long, 5-1/2 inches high and 4-3/4 inches wide. My standard mandoline fits in any of my drawers; this will not. Big pieces of produce need to be cut down to fit into the 2-1/2-inch-diameter hole. More pieces to wash.
Cost and availability: $35 at chefn.com and at Williams-Sonoma in Ala Moana Center.
Worth it? Yes, especially for those looking for their first mandoline or those who were too nervous to use one. The four blades included are another plus — most mandolines come with just one — even though the julienne blade doesn’t work too well.
Got a gadget that you love? Curious about one you’d like us to test? Email crave@staradvertiser.com or write Crave, Honolulu Star-Advertiser, 7 Waterfront Plaza Suite 210, Honolulu, HI 96813.