While talking story recently with a friend on Maui, I was reminded of the challenges restaurants have selling red wines produced from “Rhone grape varieties.” I would surmise that few wine drinkers are able to define those grape varieties.
While the two most famous are syrah and grenache, the list also includes mourvedre and carignane, to name a few. The latter two aren’t necessarily recognizable. To further complicate things, in many cases the best renditions are blends of several grape varieties.
So the big question is, Why venture out to try these wines?
There are several reasons. First, the most interesting examples offer a distinct profile of wine — different flavors, character and food compatibility.
Second, the trio of syrah, grenache and mourvedre has proved to be a winning combination. In France particularly, world-class wines have been produced.
Third, in terms of mojo and texture, well-farmed and masterfully crafted renditions fill the huge void that exists between pinot noir- and cabernet sauvignon-based red wines.
I encourage you to try these wines with Mediterranean-influenced food. Here are four standout examples:
2014 Neyers “Sage Canyon Cuvee” (about $25 a bottle): This is an absolutely delicious, intriguingly rustic, easy-drinking California red, produced mainly from self-rooted Carignane vines more than 130 years old, with smatterings of syrah and grenache blended in. With each bottle, I am amazed at how tasty and food-friendly this wine continues to be. It absolutely over-delivers for the dollar. What pinot noir- or cabernet- based red can you get for the same price?
2013 Ojai Syrah “Bien Nacido Vineyard” (about $38): A bevy of highly praised syrah-based red wines is coming out of California and Washington state. But I recommend you try this bottling first, no matter what the vintage. I would characterize this wine as a thoroughbred — full of power, grace and pedigree, all done so effortlessly. I also relish the masculine, sultry, savory edge this wine offers. This bottling might never get a 100-point rating, but it is top caliber in my book.
2011 Gramercy Cellars “L’Idiot du Village” (about $36): This is a mourvedre-based red from superstar master sommelier Greg Harrington in Washington. He once shared with me his strong feelings about the potential of this grape in his neck of the woods. With each vintage’s release I grow to understand his vision. Harrington’s version has a spirit to its core that leans toward what the best reds of the Bandol region of France offer. They have a savory quality with wonderful texture, balance and deliciousness. Harrington is definitely onto something special and unique.
2014 Sucette Grenache (about $54): It has taken me some time to warm up to top grenache-based reds. It’s not an issue of quality, but about quality for the dollar. Imagine, then, my wariness at tasting a $54 rendition from Australia. It came strongly recommended by one of my longtime wine buddies, and his enthusiasm turned my wariness into eagerness. Upon first whiff and taste, I was wowed and immediately tried to get my hands on some! I love the plush, intriguing, spiced fruit, with all of its old-vine character, class and intricacies, and its provocative viscosity and texture. This wine is produced from self-rooted vines more than 90 years old, in the sandy soils of Vine Vale, Australia, and crafted by master sommelier Richard Betts.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.