Honolulu Star-Advertiser

Sunday, December 15, 2024 76° Today's Paper


FeaturesTop News

Race to save rare pig hinges on eating them

1/3
Swipe or click to see more

ASSOCIATED PRESS

Three-day-old mulefoot piglets nuzzled their mother at Dogpatch Farm in Washington, Maine on Dec. 8. The American mulefoot hog was once the rarest of all U.S. livestock breeds, and they’re still listed as critically rare by the Livestock Conservancy. There are fewer than 500 registered, purebred, breeding mulefoots.

2/3
Swipe or click to see more

ASSOCIATED PRESS

Susan Frank prepared to feed her mulefoot pigs at Dogpatch Farm in Washington, Maine on Dec. 8. The rare breed enjoys open pasture and woodland at the small farm in rural Maine.

3/3
Swipe or click to see more
In this Thursday, Dec. 8, 2016, photo Susan Frank pets one of her mulefoot pigs at Dogpatch Farm in Washington, Maine. The American mulefoot hog was once the rarest of all U.S. livestock breeds, and they’re still listed as critically rare by the Livestock Conservancy. Frank accounts for about a dozen of the pigs. (AP Photo/Robert F. Bukaty)

WASHINGTON, Maine >> Susan Frank and her dogs spend their days shepherding hairy, black pigs with names like Bacon, Pork Chop and Yummy around a chunk of Maine woods. Her farm, which raises and fattens the rare American mulefoot hogs for slaughter, is essential to their survival, she believes.

Frank’s mulefoots are representative of a breed that was once the rarest of all U.S. livestock according to some agricultural censuses, and remains critically rare, according to the Livestock Conservancy. There are fewer than 500 registered, purebred, breeding mulefoots in the country (they are even more uncommon elsewhere), and Frank’s Dogpatch Farm accounts for a dozen of them, along with some 170 others, some of which are cross-breeds.

The way to save declining breeds of livestock, she argues, is to get people to eat them — thereby increasing demand that will lead to more breeding. She wants the mulefoot restored to its early 20th-century status as a premier pig.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture is listening. The agency is giving her $50,000 to help increase interest in products made with mulefoot meat, and Frank is spreading her gospel to chefs, restaurants and markets around New England and New York.

“I know it sounds weird, but you have to eat a rare breed to help it come back,” she said. “I see it as a way to spread the word about mulefoot.”

The mulefoot is named for its non-cloven hoof, and was the subject of a vibrant industry including some 200 herds a century ago. But its tendency for slow growth and small litters reduced its appeal for industrial pig farming, and the mulefoot was down to just one significant herd in Missouri a decade ago, when a slow drive to save the breed began.

Frank got into the business in 2012 after acquiring her first three purebreds. The pigs were popular with small farmers and homesteaders because of their hardiness and high yields of meat and lard, said Darlene Goehringer, a mulefoot farmer in Hurlock, Maryland.

“If nobody wants them for pork, who would keep them?” Goehringer said. “This isn’t like raising a parrot.”

The drive to save the mulefoot is motivated in part by the importance of preserving genetic stock, said Jeannette Beranger, a programs director with the Livestock Conservancy. Mulefoots, like other old breeds of livestock, are genetic storehouses that can’t be replicated if they become extinct, she said.

“Even though we’re not going to feed the world with mulefoot hogs, the reason you want to keep them around is because they might have qualities that might not be present in other commercial hogs,” Beranger said.

Frank’s farm has 20 acres of fenced-in birch, beech and hornbeam trees where the hogs roam free, noshing on feed pellets and the occasional apple or pumpkin. She wants to organize a food festival based around mulefoot products, with some wineries and breweries.

Until then, she’ll be raising her pigs and working to convince restaurants in food-crazy places like Portland, Boston and New York to use their meat.

“It’s not just to make a living for me,” she said. “It’ll help the breed come back.”

7 responses to “Race to save rare pig hinges on eating them”

  1. SteveToo says:

    More tax money wasted. Who cares about this pig surviving?

  2. stanislous says:

    What a novel idea,,, create a demand to save a species… kind of like American hunters have done with Turkey, and Deer in the United States… where there are millions more now than there were when the pilgrims came. Wow, I wonder if hunters could do the same for African Wildlife. You kill a few to save a whole bunch. Create a demand so the people will manage, protect, and propagate the species. Wonder why the eco-terrorists and preservationist can see the light when it comes to pigs, but can’t see it when it comes to elephants???

  3. Tita Girl says:

    The Red and White Irish Setter was brought back from near extinction and I don’t recall reading about the breeders and monks who saved them serving them up after Mass. Amen.

  4. FWS says:

    “The mulefoot is named for its non-cloven hoof.” So without a cloven hoof, couldn’t this be a type of pork made kosher? Now that would be an untapped market!!!

  5. mcc says:

    Great sales pitch for the mule foot pig seller’s. “Eat my pigs so they may survive.”

Leave a Reply