Thanksgiving is right around the corner, and many local families do their own spins on what to serve. Here are some wine recommendations to round out that holiday meal.
For the traditional dinner of roast turkey, savory stuffing and fixings, the style of wine classically served is French Beaujolais. Beaujolais is a subregion of Burgundy, France. It has been proved that gamay noir, the grape variety used in Beaujolais production, is actually a descendent of pinot noir, which is partly why it is so delicious and food-friendly. At its best a Beaujolais is light in body, mojo and alcohol level. I envision a Thanksgiving feast with loved ones to be joyous, loud and super fun. Wines like Beaujolais are tailor-made for such occasions.
The first that comes to mind is the Diochon Moulin-a-Vent (about $27 a bottle), a wine produced from 80- to 100-year-old vines, grown and produced the old-fashioned way. Those seeking a more value-driven rendition can consider the Marcel Lapierre “Raisins Gaulois” (about $17). Lapierre was one of the most game-changing Beaujolais winemakers of all time. His Morgon bottling won him world acclaim. The “Raisins Gaulois” bottling is what he would serve at his own dinner table, and my wife, Cheryle, and I serve it regularly at home.
For a very different take on what Beaujolais can be, try Beaujolais Nouveau, officially released on the third Thursday of November each year, just in time for the holiday. Beaujolais Nouveau is just 2 to 3 months old upon release and is typically the first wine of a vintage we get to taste, at least here in the islands. Its wonderfully fresh, captivating, lively, often fizzy personality is so distinct from typical Beaujolais and other reds that it seems appropriate for gulping between bites of food.
Folks hankering for California wines seem to gravitate to pinot noir for Thanksgiving. Last June, on a trip to various California wine-growing regions, the standout was the 2012 Hilt Pinot Noir “Santa Rita Hills” (about $40). The Hilt is a sister winery to Screaming Eagle in Napa Valley. This means quality is the main focus, with some of the finest vineyards for pinot noir in all of California and the winemaking talents of superstar Matt Dees. This is certainly the perfect opportunity to give the wine a try.
Another option would be a dry, more minerally style of rose. A couple of options: the Chateau des Deux Rocs Cabrieres Rose “Premices” (about $16) from southern France and the Scherrer Dry Rose (about $23) from California winemaker Fred Scherrer. Why do these work? They freshen the palate between bites, just as cranberry does, during a meal of the hearty, savory foods.
Finally, for those who like to smoke or deep-fry their turkey and serve a sweet yam to accompany it, consider a well-chilled glass of Gunderloch Riesling “Jean Baptiste” (about $20). This fruity, slightly sweet, minerally German Riesling is delicious, completely refreshing, uplifting and gulpable — perfect for such feasts.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.