Observed in Japan since the sixth century, the origins of Obon are based on the story of a disciple of Buddha who was agonized by the vision of his deceased mother suffering in the Realm of Hungry Ghosts. Buddha advised him to honor monks returning from their summer retreat, which he did. Subsequently, his mother’s spirit was freed. The monk expressed his joy with dance and music.
The bon festival tradition is believed to have been started in Hawaii by Japanese laborers in plantation communities in the early 1900s. A 1924 newspaper clip announced a bon dance taking place on Kauai, according to Judy Van Zile in her book, “The Japanese Bon Dance in Hawaii” (Press Pacifica, 1982). When people moved off the plantations, Buddhist temples became the dominant organizers of bon dances, which generally are held over two nights and preceded by services.
“In Hawaii it is so closely tied to Buddhist temples,” said Christine Yano, professor of anthropology at the University of Hawaii at Manoa. “In Japan, not so.”
Yano, who wrote a master’s thesis on bon dancing in Hawaii, interviewed many first-generation Japanese-Americans and is interested in how bon dance has evolved in the 21st century with subsequent generations.
Today, Obon festivals are community events that draw hundreds of participants. The bon dance is a living tradition that continues to change, she said, and has different meanings for different people.
“I think there are many older Japanese-Americans who participate as a way to continue on with traditions,” she said. “On the other hand, there are some who go to have a good time, and that’s fine, too.”
ETIQUETTE
Whatever you do, ‘do not stop!’
It’s OK to stand outside the dance circle to watch or clap along. No experience is necessary to join the dance line and give it a try.
“Anybody can go in,” said Derrick Iwata, education specialist at the Japanese Cultural Center of Hawaii “but the one rule you need to remember is, do not stop! Don’t hold the line up.” And don’t worry about making mistakes. Remember to look happy. “You want to show your ancestors you’re having fun,” he said.
Also, maintain adequate space between the dancers next to you. It’s best to take smaller rather than larger steps.
Keith Haugen, a veteran gaijin bon dancer, suggests newbies watch a dance number or two to get the feel of it first. “Then get behind someone who really looks like they know what they’re doing,” he said. Many festivals have a group of dancers who have already practiced the numbers.
He recommends learning how to say “sumimasen,” or “excuse me” in Japanese, and stepping into the outer ring without interrupting the flow.
In the past, some temples had strict dress codes requiring traditional attire, but many have relaxed the rules and it’s not uncommon to see dancers in shorts and T-shirts. But if you really want to get into the spirit, put on a yukata or happi coat, which are sometimes sold at the events.
FOOD
Comfort foods are a big draw
Some people are drawn to bon dances simply for the food, typically a mix of Japanese street fare — grilled mochi, yakisoba and oden (fishcake stew) — and various ethnic foods and all-American standards such as hot dogs, hamburgers and grilled corn on the cob. Every festival has a signature dish, but the staples include barbecue meat sticks, musubi, shave ice, manju and Okinawan andagi (deep-fried dough).
Michael Ching of Manoa, a drummer for the Hawaii Eisa Shinyuu Kai dance group, said his favorite is the andagi at Kailua Hongwanji, which he describes as crunchy on the outside, warm and airy on the inside. He also loves the jook (rice porridge) at Jodo Mission of Hawaii’s bon dance. Many festivals offer tsukemono (preserved vegetables), prepared by the female elders, that rivals what’s served at high-end Japanese restaurants, Ching said.
Ching, 40, is a heart attack survivor whose goal is to make it to every bon dance on Oahu — and he almost has, with two to go. He has been posting bon dance photos on Instagram since 2011, the year of his heart attack (find his posts on Twitter and Instagram using @michaeldching and the hashtag #bondance- hi).
“I think it’s all about the comfort food, the nostalgia of eating something from when we were kids,” he said. “That gives us that nice, warm feeling. A burger, beef stew, barbecue stick, Spam musubi, shave ice, bowl of saimin and andagi. Oh, and can’t forget the baked goods.”
DANCE
Learning how adds to the fun
Obon dances involve a series of repetitive patterns: hand motions with forward and backward steps, turns, hops and claps, on the beat of four. The dancers travel clockwise or counterclockwise around the yagura, depending on the dance. If there are many dancers, there are several layers of concentric circles.
Many of the hand motions have meanings, such as welcoming the spirits or sending the spirits off, or bringing your hands in front of your face to make a peak like Mount Fuji.
If you hear random calls, don’t be alarmed. It’s the hayashi, meaningless syllables or phrases interspersed between verses of the sung text.
A handful of bon dance clubs on Oahu, such as the Fukushima Bon Dance Club, bring their musicians and dancers to festivals to ensure success. Contemporary influences have crept into bon dance music with the incorporation of Japanese pop, the electric slide and even a little two-step.
Don’t know how to bon-dance? Classes are available islandwide, including 7 p.m. Wednesdays at the Honpa Hongwanji Hawaii Betsuin social hall. The class there is called Bondancersize and brings in up to 100 students. Moiliili Hongwanji offers bon dance lessons at 6:30 p.m. on the first two Mondays in June. Check with your neighborhood Buddhist temple or community center. Some are free and some charge a fee (Honpa Hongwanji charges $10 per month).
SONGS
Every tune tells a story of Japan
There are dozens of bon dance songs, each reflecting a different region of Japan. They tell stories of fishing, farming and love — and even modern pop culture. One example is the “Pokemon Ondo,” which was based on the card game craze and remains popular because of its appeal to all ages.
Keith Haugen, host of “Obon,” a one-hour special on the Japanese bon odori tradition airing at 7 p.m. Monday on HPR-2, has experienced bon dances both in Japan and Hawaii for more than 50 years.
His first was as an Army photographer stationed in Japan in the 1950s. Haugen said he was impressed by how inclusive it was; even for a gaijin, or foreigner, he always felt welcome.
On his radio special, which has aired every year since 2006, he talks about the songs, offers excerpts and shares translations.
He will play some of the most popular minyo, or Japanese folk songs, at obon festivals and talk about traditions, changes and Japanese instruments, including the shakuhachi, or bamboo flute, metal drums and koto.
Nowadays most festivals use recordings, which may be accompanied by live musicians. A few still provide live music.
Three standards
“Tanko Bushi”
Known as the “Coal Miners Song,” this was originally sung by mine workers in Tagawa, Fukuoka prefecture, and became one of the most popular bon dance songs in Japan after a record of it was released in 1932. Dance motions include digging, throwing a bag over the shoulder and pushing a cart.
“Zumpa Ondo”
Known as “Get up and go,” this lively bon dance is from southern Fukuoka prefecture.
“Dai Tokyo Ondo”
Known as “Tokyo dance song,” this traditional folk song celebrates Tokyo in the “swung” 2/2 rhythm.
Obon graphic
