CHICAGO >> Chef Suzanne Goin’s victory at the James Beard Awards on Monday is a sign that West Coast culinary work is earning its due from an awards ceremony that for 24 years was based in New York.
Another left-coaster, Dahlia Narvaez, won for her work as pastry chef at Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles.
The Beard Awards, held at Chicago’s Lyric Opera, moved from New York last year. Awardees included chefs and restaurants in New Orleans, Florida and New Mexico.
Chef and restaurateur Marcus Samuelsson credited the geographic diversity of this year’s winners to chefs’ ability to communicate better using social media.
“What you’re seeing tonight is an evolution of the last 15 years,” said Samuelsson, who was among inductees to the Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America.
Goin was named outstanding chef after several nominations. “Can I just say, hallelujah, thank God!” she shouted after her win.
Chicago mainstay Alinea won the outstanding restaurant honor at a ceremony many consider the Oscars of the culinary world.
Alinea chef Grant Achatz’s ultramodern cooking style has come to define the molecular gastronomy movement. He thanked his staff for trusting him, having courage and “taking the risk to innovate.”
Other key awards:
>> Rising star chef: Daniela Soto-Innes of Cosme in New York
>> Best new restaurant: Shaya in New Orleans, which serves modern Israeli food
>> Outstanding baker: Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery + Cafe in Boston
>> Outstanding wine program: Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa, Fla.
>> Outstanding wine, beer or spirits professional: Ron Cooper of Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal in Ranchos de Taos, N.M.
>> Outstanding restaurateur: Ken Friedman of The Spotted Pig, The Breslin and Tosca Cafe in New York
>> Lifetime achievement: Leah Chase, known as the Queen of Creole Cuisine at Dooky Case’s Restaurant in New Orleans
>> Outstanding bar program: Maison Premiere in Brooklyn, N.Y.
>> Outstanding service: Eleven Madison Park in New York
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Full list of awards: jamesbeard.org/awards
