Who doesn’t love a potato? The handy-dandy veggie appeals to everyone in one form or another. Meat eaters love steak and potatoes. Fast foodies adore french fries. The go-to for home cooks on a budget is a pot of stew or curry, considered incomplete without potatoes. It’s so loved, in fact, that 57 million pounds of fresh and processed potatoes are brought into Hawaii each year.

But what if there was something local, sustainable and traditional that could replace the esteemed, imported potato?

That’s a tall order, but the breadfruit, or ulu, meets the challenge. Not only is it versatile, it’s low in fat, high in fiber and complex carbohydrates, and is a good source of calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, potassium, thiamine and niacin.

The Breadfruit Institute of the National Tropical Botanical Garden, and the Hawai’i Homegrown Food Network, have brought the humble ulu to the attention of Gov. David Ige and all the county mayors, who have proclaimed September the month to "Hooulu ka ulu o Hawaii nei" — "lift up and celebrate ulu throughout Hawaii."

This ulu primer comes courtesy of the institute and the network:

Where to buy

» When available, ulu is sold at Kokua Market, Tamashiro Market and FarmLovers Farmers Markets (in Haleiwa, Kakaako, Kailua and Pearlridge; get schedule at farmloversmarkets.com).

» Foodland carries ulu occasionally at select stores (call ahead).

» At the Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation Oahu farmers markets, some vendors carry ulu, but you might have to ask for it. A number of farms grow it but don’t make space for it in their booths. Farm bureau markets are at Kapiolani Community College and the Blaisdell Center, in Mililani, Kailua and Haleiwa (see schedule at hfbf.org/market).

Levels of maturity

» Small, immature fruit: Hard and often bright green, it must be boiled to make the flesh tender. At this stage it resembles a vegetable, with a flavor similar to artichoke hearts. Preparations include pickling, marinating and stir-frying.

» Mature fruit: Look for greenish-yellow skin with brown cracks or crust. Its flavor and texture make it a great substitute for potatoes. Mature fruit takes on seasonings well. Use it in any dish that calls for potatoes, such as salad, stews and curries. Mature ulu is richer and creamier than potatoes, says Craig Elevitch of Hawai’i Homegrown Food Network.

» Ripe fruit: Skin is yellow-green to yellow-brown; the fruit is soft to the touch and has a sweet aroma. Ripe ulu is good for desserts. The flesh is custardlike and can be scooped directly out of the skin. Ideas for ulu desserts: ulu haupia pie, breadfruit pudding and deep-fried ulu balls.

Harvesting and storage

» After picking, turn ulu upside down to allow sap to bleed from end of stem.

» To extend shelf life, soak whole fruit in iced water for 10 to 15 minutes.

» Mature fruit will ripen in one to three days. To slow ripening, refrigerate. Skin browns but flesh stays firm.

» Minimally process fruit by blanching, then freeze slices or wedges.

» Steamed, fully cooked ulu, cooled and stored in a freezer-grade plastic bag, will keep frozen for a year. Defrost in the fridge and lightly steam to restore the original texture.

Beware the sap

» Breadfruit sap can stick to knives, pots and steamers. Soak fruit in cold water one to two minutes before cutting or cooking.

» Oil knife blades or spray them with nonstick oil before cutting ulu; some experts recommend gloves. If the fruit oozes sap when cut, place cardboard on top of your cutting board to keep it clean. Remove sap immediately from kitchen tools using oil and a scrub brush, then wash with dish soap and hot water.

Cooking methods

Immature ulu must be boiled at least 30 to 60 minutes to tenderize. Cooked mature ulu is easily pierced; cooked ripe ulu firms up to the texture of cheescake.

» Steaming: Steam mature, quartered ulu 10 to 20 minutes, ripe halves 30 minutes. Place pieces in 1 to 2 inches of water.

» Bake: Halve mature fruit and place cut side down on oiled baking sheet or shallow pan with 1/2 inch water. Bake at 375 to 400 degrees about an hour. Bake ripe ulu 30 to 60 minutes.

» Microwave: Clean, halve and place mature or ripe ulu, cut side up, in shallow dish with 1/2-inch water. Cook 3 to 5 minutes.

How to use ulu

The photographs above show traditional uses for potatoes and bananas that can be adapted for cooking with breadfruit instead:

» John Cadman, owner of Maui Breadfruit Co., which produces Pono Pies and Maui Ulu Hummus, adds ulu to stews. He recommends steaming mature ulu before adding it to another dish. This saves time. Raw ulu takes longer than potatoes to cook, he says. To steam, peel skin, cut the ulu into quarters and remove the core. (He says this is better than boiling, because boiled ulu retains too much moisture.) Cadman also makes ulu "fries": Cut into wedges, coat in oil, season, then bake at 425 degrees until golden brown.

» "Ulu ambassador" and chef Sam Choy uses steamed mature ulu in place of potatoes in salads, in a fresh kale salad and in poke, chowder and to make ulu cakes. Choy also adds chunks to his shoyu chicken for "a one-pot meal."

» Diane Ragone, director of the Breadfruit Institute, adds mature ulu to her chicken adobo. She also makes a decadent ulu au gratin.

» Pamela Boyar, co-owner of the FarmLovers Farmers Markets on Oahu, makes a quick ulu pancake that calls simply for ripe ulu, eggs and a pinch of salt.

» Laurie Carlson of Slow Food Oahu uses ripe ulu to bake fruit bread. She sometimes uses half ulu and half banana when making banana bread.