"Dumplings All Day Wong," by Lee Anne Wong (Page Street Publishing Co., $22.99)
For chef Lee Anne Wong, the world of dumplings provides infinite possibilities and a singular pleasure — "It’s the perfect small bite of food."
Through her latest cookbook, "Dumplings All Day Wong," the chef hopes to reassure home cooks that making good dumplings doesn’t require perfected skills or flawless, from-scratch wrappers and sauces.
"The idea was to make dumplings not intimidating," she said. "You basically need a dough to encase the filling. Certain folds work better with fresh versus premade wrappers.It’s just a matter of convenience versus texture or flavor."
According to Wong, who runs Koko Head Cafe, where dumplings are always on the menu, either choice is OK.
"It doesn’t matter even if it doesn’t look like a dumpling. As long as it’s sealed properly, it will still taste delicious."
Wong encourages cooks to make a basic batch of filling (see her recipe for pork and chive dumplings) and experiment with different cooking methods — boiling, steaming, pan frying and deep frying. Learn how the dumplings differ in texture and taste, and find out what you like best, she says.
The book includes more than 120 recipes for dumplings and more than 25 for dipping sauces, and even offers stock and condiment recipes, for a full dumpling experience. Each recipe starts with an introduction and includes a preferred cooking method and dipping sauce suggestions. Some even include substitutes for ingredients.
Even when pressed, Wong has no hard-and-fast rules for pairing specific dumplings with specific sauces.
"It’s really all interchangeable," she said, urging dumpling fanatics to pick a sauce, make a small batch and have some handy in the fridge. The same goes for filling. This makes for quick, easy work when there’s a craving for dumplings.
Another way to have homemade dumplings any time, says Wong: Make a big batch, then place them in a single layer on a cookie sheet lined with parchment. Freeze, then remove the dumplings from the parchment and place in a resealable bag in the freezer. That affords the perfect amount of dumplings every time.
Though Wong’s book primarily focuses on Pan-Asian recipes — "The idea was to have a collection of recipes that centered around the same pantry, so that if you had bottles of chili paste, dark soy sauce and shaoxing (Chinese rice wine), you can make a dozen recipes" –the range is amazingly broad.
While the book begins with the basic pork dumpling, it delves into uncharted territory with Crispy BBQ Eel Gyoza, Sweet Corn Tamale Dumplings and White Chocolate Wasabi Pretzel Dumplings. A recipe for smoked salmon dumplings is Wong’s homage to her hometown of New York. Sardine Ginger Wonton Soup and Toasted Almond Cookie Dumplings are among her favorites.
"After they work their way through the book, people will see that they can really take anything and make dumplings," she said. "The possibilities are truly endless."
In fact, Wong professes, dumplings do more than fill the belly.
"I believe dumplings bring people together. Whenever I make some, curious onlookers come by to watch, and often they ask if they can help. Dumplings are a great communal activity in the making and the eating of them."