Know where your food comes from. That’s the mantra of sustainability.
But how do you gain access to that body of knowledge? If you want locally grown strawberries, can you get them? How do you figure out where to go?
The Hawaii Food Map will likely provide the answer. The new online resource lists information of "what’s growing, who’s growing it and how to access it," said Lisa Asagi, who conceptualized the map as part of her work with She Grows Food. The organization, which she founded with fellow agriculture advocate Dan Nakasone, is dedicated to supporting Hawaii’s food system.
‘EARTH TO PLATE’ DINNER Five-course meal with wine pairings:
>> Where: The Pearl restaurant, Leeward Community College campus
>> When: 6 p.m. Friday
>> Cost: $70, $85 with wine
>> Reservations: Call 455-0298
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The map comprises information on 100 fruits, vegetables and spices grown by farms statewide. It also offers a listing of Hawaii farms.
"It’s a cross-reference. If you put into the search engine ‘kabocha,’ for example, you’ll get information on where to get it, how to select and store it and general tips on how to use it," she said. "Later, we hope to include recipes as well."
The map was funded by She Grows Food and a grant from the state Department of Agriculture. For now, the database doesn’t list dairy or livestock items, as the grant does not include funding for those products.
Connecting people and restaurants with sources of local produce prevents food waste — and that helps farmers with their bottom line. According to a 2011 study for the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, some 40 percent of food is wasted in the U.S. at the retail and consumer levels.
"Forty percent food loss equates to 40 percent fertilizer, herbicides, labor and water loss as well," said Nakasone. "Farmers would do better, food would cost less and our environment would be cleaner if we reduce this waste. Food prices will continue to go up unless we change this."
The food map is intended to address waste in a couple of ways. Oneis helping to move surplus product.
"When you have surpluses, it’s hard to deal with because it comes at short notice, the products are perishable and most of the restaurants have already made commitments" through their orders to distributors, said Shin Ho, who runs her family’s Ho Farms.
Last year the farm had a surplus of 1,100 pounds of Roma tomatoes. With the assistance of Asagi and Nakasone, Ho was able to move it all in three days. The map would alleviate the need for such emergency measures. Ho already has some ideas.
"The food map could show folks where items are available and at what price, and connect them with the producers. The farmers market could serve as a pickup point," she said.
Chef Lindsey Ozawa, co-owner of Prima restaurant, was one of those who purchased Ho’s surplus Romas. He says the map could help him patronize more farmers.
"It’s helpful to have a resource like that that says this person has this, that person has that," he said. "On a day-to-day basis, I get into the restaurant at 9:30 a.m. and don’t leave until 11:30 p.m. I know there are a lot of farmers out there producing interesting things, but realistically, I have no time to track them down."
Then there are off-grade products, which account for a substantial amount of waste.
Grading of produce is based on appearance, meaning if a cucumber or eggplant grows curved rather than straight, it is considered unsuitable to sell at market price. Often these products aren’t sold at all.
"Why should one cucumber cost less than another when it was grown the same way for the same cost with the same care?" Asagi asks.
Ho says customers often compliment her farm’s pristine tomatoes, but what they’re seeing for sale isn’t reflective of her entire crop.
"The product looks nice because we throw away a lot of other product that isn’t perfect," she said. "When we initially started working at the farmers market, we wanted to present a cohesive product, but then the issue becomes not having enough product."
Ho says she understands that straight cucumbers might be necessary for processing if slicers or other machinery require the vegetable to be a certain shape.
"But every day, we as a nation waste enough food to fill the largest football stadium in the U.S.," she said.
Ho says she is able to sell some off-grade product. "Change comes really slow. Now some small restaurants will accept off-grade from us if that’s all we have."
A bright spot: Her farmers market customers don’t bat an eyelash. "Yes, people are open to it. They shop for what’s convenient," she said.
The map will help replicate Ho’s success.
"It’s about seeing through and reaching through all the different systems put into place that makes us not able to buy a crooked eggplant," Asagi said.
Asagi also hopes that the map will help establish a new way of gathering and sharing information.
"One of my goals is to crowd-source information. There’s so much knowledge out there," she said.
Asagi envisions the site sharing information in the casual way that people do.
"Every week, I’d be working at the farmers market hearing people exchange information: How do you know how to select something? How do you grow something, cook something? Which parts can you use? People are curious," she said.
Crowd-sourcing means the map will evolve continually as information arrives. Asagi herself is still searching out the countless small farms that populate the state. She hopes that after about a year the map will be "reflective of what’s actually out there."
"I want to emphasize that this is a living project. That’s why it’s called a map. Little by little it will get filled up," she said. "At the end we’ll have a fantastic reflection of collective knowledge."
Students learn to use odds and ends of produce
Leeward Community College culinary students are learning ways of dealing with surplus and off-grade products for their final course before graduation, resulting in an “Earth to Plate” dinner Friday at The Pearl, the campus’ fine-dining restaurant.
The students worked with Eberhard Kintscher, executive chef of Michel’s. Kintscher grew up in Germany, where pickling and canning was a way of life.
“As part of our kitchens, every household had a cool cellar,” he recalled. “When we had an abundance of strawberries or cherries, we’d add vinegar and red wine and make jam that we’d eat during winter months.”
Kintscher encouraged students to be creative with different techniques when working with off-grade products.
“A cucumber might be crooked enough where consumers won’t buy it, but it could be mandolin-sliced. One of my workers has a farm in Waimanalo, and he’ll bring in bell peppers or eggplant that people won’t buy, so I slice them and put them in olive oil. Tomatoes can be roasted on an open flame,” he said. “I encouraged the students to think outside the box.”
As for Friday’s dinner, Kintscher said he was duly impressed by the students’ abilities at a recent practice session.
“The outcome was terrific,” he raved. “I could sell their food to my customers.”
This chutney, created by Kintscher and executed by LCC student chefs, would make delicious use of a bumper crop of mangoes.
MANGO PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY
1-1/4 pounds pineapple, diced into 1/4-inch pieces 1-1/4 pounds mango, diced into 1/4-inch pieces 1 teaspoon star anise 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1 to 2 cups honey, depending on sweetness of fruits 3/8 cup raisins
Combine all ingredients in pot except raisins. Bring to boil, lower heat to low and cook 20 minutes.
Drain fruit overnight. Reserve liquid. In pot on low heat, reduce liquid until thick and syrupy. Add fruits back into syrup and cook through (be careful not to overcook). Add raisins and cool. Yields 4 cups.
Approximate nutritional information, per 2-tablespoon serving (based on 1 cup honey): 50 calories, 13 g carbohydrate, 12 g fiber, 12 g sugar, no fat, cholesterol, sodium or protein
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Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S., a nutritionist in the Department of Human Nutrition, Food and Animal Science, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources, University of Hawaii-Manoa..
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For Hawaii Food Map, visit http://www.shegrowsfood.com