At a Hawaii Food & Wine Festival luncheon last fall, chef Ed Kenney featured an array of fresh, locally grown vegetables. Not only was his presentation wonderfully colorful, it deftly conveyed a "farm-to-table" theme.

Throughout southern France and Italy, fresh, simply prepared produce is commonly served at countryside village bistros. These small, family-owned eateries usually grow their own fruits and vegetables or purchase them from neighbors.

Wine offerings at such "holes in the wall" are also simple and refreshing, often fizzy and thirst-quenching. They are served in small juice glasses, sometimes with an ice cube or two.

We looked to recreate that same cafe feel in pairing wine with Kenney’s vegetable ensemble. We decided on Elvio Tintero’s "Grangia" (about $15 a bottle). I believe the chef was as thrilled as I at how this off-dry, fizzy Italian white wine worked its magic with his food.

The key to its success with food is a remarkable liveliness on the palate and a refreshing, citrus-like edge enhanced by the fizziness.

For the red-wine drinker, three bistro-style arrivals are worth checking out:

» The 2011 (yes, 2011!) Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Nouveau (about $20) is a light, seemingly fruit-driven red full of exuberance that quenches the thirst.

» From Italy, a remarkable 2010 Piemontese, Valpane Barbera del Monferrato (roughly $14) is the kind of "country" red wine that overdelivers for its price tag. I love its amazing deliciousness, youthful vitality and ability to work with a wide range of foods.

» The newest arrival is the 2010 Fattoria Moretto Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro (about $17). This fizzy, refreshing red from Italy’s Emilia Romagna region is meant to be served well chilled with casual Italian/Mediterranean fare, from anti-pasti and cheese and salami to pizza.

———

Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants chain.