Self-knowledge flows in waves as new year dawns
One thing that won’t be missed about 2016 is the record and incessant crowding encountered at Oahu surf spots throughout the year. Read more
In the Lineup
Tonggs tree tradition makes Christmas bright
Family time, food and stories about a favorite surf break all make for a joyful Christmas morning. Read more
Yoga trainer Lee helps surfers find Zen
Yoga class with Jennie Lee is filled with laughter as well as poses. She has a direct, down-to-earth approach and a wry sense of humor that puts things in perspective. Read more
Best gifts for surfers offer memorable experiences
Surfers are experientialists, so give your favorite wave rider something to look forward to, from a pass to go surfing on Christmas Day to a rental close to a favorite break. Read more
Surf grinds improve, but hunger is always there
South Shore surfers share their favorite places to grind, past and present, including a few newcomers to the lineup. Read more
Women meet demands of big-wave competition
We may not have elected our first female U.S. president, but another glass ceiling was broken when the first World Surf League women’s big-wave championship event was held on Maui. Read more
When waves go flat, yoga and swimming fit the bill
Although we know we should paddle out every day to stay in shape, there comes a time for every South Shore surfer when to do so seems ridiculous. Read more
Grading the groms: Some kids seek more than free rides
Thank goodness for school. In late July and early August, just before the academic year began, Suis, which had been heavily trending with the middle and high school set for about a year, reached peak grom. Read more
Birthdays bring waves of presents among Suis surfer girls
On my birthday I went surfing at Suis after work, even though I was feeling sick, the sun was setting, cold winds were whipping the minuscule waves and there were at least six people out, including the groms. Read more
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Autumn is shark-bite time, but Mr. Fin has no calendar
On a recent afternoon as I paddled in from Suis, I slid into the water and swam to stretch out, towing my board by its ankle leash. After a few strokes I felt a sudden, violent tug on the leash. Read more
At the end of the day, love and waves don’t keep score
The parking lot at Point Panics was full, and my son, Rory Wallace, was scheduled to compete in a bodysurfing contest in 20 minutes. He left his fins with meand went to find parking. Read more
Talk therapy comes free in community of surfers
I was surfing a steep right at Suis when the Sundance Kid dropped in on me and cut back, running over my feet. Read more
Talk about the present stirs memories of days long past
After surfing on a recent Sunday morning, I nearly missed my old surf gang reunion. Read more
Here’s to clean, calm waters for us and our ocean friends
It was a rare, uncrowded August evening, only three of us out at Suis, surfing beneath the ghost of a fat quarter moon. When the saffron sun cleared Barbers Point and touched down in the sea, I realized that the season was changing already, heading toward autumn’s dreamy days of glassy waves. Read more
Lou, the Tonggs neighbor, is a fixture in his front yard
The surf breaks at Tonggs and Rice Bowls are easy to access through a public beach right-of-way, but a lack of public showers causes a ripple effect through the neighborhood. Read more
Tide turns, and it’s time to teach ways of the waves
On a recent windy evening, when I checked Suis after work, the ocean was a choppy, baleful green, and there were seven people out. But I saw a set from shore, so I went. Read more
Surfer with a Pulitzer Prize writes of being an outsider
One day out at my home break, Suicides, a surfer surprised me by asking if I’d read William Finnegan’s “Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life.” Yes, and it’s good, I said. “Get Diamond Head, Makaha,Mokes — even Tonggs, ah?” he’d heard. Read more
Husband vowed to take her for better and for surf
Salt spray and energy fill the Honolulu air as the waves charge shoreward in the vast, light-filled arena that stretches from Portlock to Point Panic, peaking with transparent beauty in Waikiki. Read more
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