Ocean teaches that life is fragile, so appreciate it
We all experience loss every year, whether in person, through loved ones, acquaintances or the news. Mortality is the human condition, some would say what makes us human. Read more
In the Lineup
When waves are scarce, surfers enjoy being with people
Despite the wintry chill, the seasonal spirit has eluded me amid workday commutes filled with construction detours and the seasonal congestion caused by extra trolleys, tour buses and rental cars. Read more
Surf-themed artwork restores the beauty of the season
“Winter Swell,” a show of surf-themed art by local surfers, is on view through Dec. 30 in the Hawaii State Art Museum shop that’s been re-conceived, under new ownership, as a gallery. Read more
Surfing is competitive but we should play fair
Conditions were near-perfect on the afternoon of Nov. 30, Day Two of the Maui Women’s Pro at Honolua Bay, as the waves arrived like ranks of goddesses — tall, lithe and glittery gray — to be welcomed by the women surfing in thisculminating event of the world championship tour. What followed was a visual symphony. Read more
Artificial waves may eliminate more than unpredictability
Wildness is precious and vanishing fast — and soon we’ll have waves at the push of a button, as the World Surf League announced that the wave pool at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch in California’s Central Valley will be added to the 2018 championship tour. Read more
The possibilities are endless when surfers inspire each other
Surfing at its finest is a private, gender-neutral communion with a force of nature. In such moments we are truly free. Read more
Function, survival both trump style in surf wear
As autumn rolls in, surfers weigh fashion versus function when out in the water. Read more
Surfer, homeless populations shift when parks close down
When evicted from one park, many houseless people shift to the next. Surfers do the same. Read more
Disasters remind surfers we’re not alone
For many Hawaii residents, the volcano-spewn gases and particles known as vog bring asthma, coughing, headaches, skin rashes and irritated eyes, but our local haze was overshadowed by the thick, toxic black smoke that blackened California skies and rained ash as far south as San Francisco Bay. Read more
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Kakaako closure boots bodysurfers from exclusive spot
The loss of access to the bodysurfing-only break at Point Panic would be hard but bearable — if there were a time frame for reopening. The prospect of an indefinite closure made some, well, panic. Read more
Surfers miss distant waves, loved ones when ocean’s flat
In previous early autumns, Oahu’s South Shore surfers have exalted over glassy, head-high waves, but this year’s mostly flat fall has prolonged our “endless bummer” of a summer. Read more
Film charts rich heritage of royals surf haven
“Ka‘ahele Ma Waikiki,” a wonderful new film created by John Clark and Ann Marie Kirk, contains footage of Waikiki surfers in 1913 and of Duke Kahanamoku paddling out to Queen’s with his youthful entourage in the 1960s. Read more
Wait for glassy waves offers time to reflect
When the tradewinds relent in late September and October, we get windless, glassy, peeling waves. And sometimes, when it’s small and inconsistent, Suis is actually uncrowded. Read more
Proper sharing of waves can be tricky proposition
Summer officially ends this week, and the passing of the season brings a classic opportunity to reflect on the passing of life. Read more
Runaway seal provides reminder of inseparable kinship
Within weeks, mom Rocky was teaching Kaimana to swim and simply be at home in the ocean. Read more
Amid all-too-brief rides, joy exists in waves unridden
Everybody’s been talking, in the Suis lineup, about what a disappointing summer it’s been, thus far, on the South Shore of Oahu. Read more
Sans Souci a tradition with local moms
My mom and her best friend from high school, Auntie Pauline Kealoha, claimed the golden sands of Kaimana Beach as their own once their kids had graduated high school. Read more
New day, great wave help ease sting of discourtesy
The last time I hazarded a Sunday sesh, there was this guy waiting on the outside for the left-breaking waves while I chased the inside rights. Things didn’t go well. Read more
Surf4HUGS empowers kids coping with illness
For the 14th year, Surf4HUGS will take sick children and interested siblings out on surfboards and launch them in the waves at Baby Queens in Waikiki. Read more
Women shred stereotypes at Surf Film Fest
Whether you’re a crowd-fearing summer grumpster like me or not, a perfect place to chill is the air-conditioned Doris Duke Theatre, where the 10th annual Surf Film Festival is playing for a month. Read more
Young surfers catch mindfulness along with waves
The first summer swells are rolling in and, as usual, mind-boggling crowds are swooping into the Suis lineup, jockeying for position. This year, however, something’s changed. Read more
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