German pretzels, chewy on the outside, with an addicting soft texture inside, can be a fun family project for the holidays — almost like arts and crafts. And best yet, they are just delicious.
The flavor is mild and slightly sweet, although the pretzels also can be salty if you add coarse salt as decoration.
Sisters Nikki and Marianna “’Aulani” Oka of Kaimuki share a family recipe that honors their grandmother Mary Ann Balzer Oka, who was born in Germany and moved to the U.S. as a child. Their grandfather, Walter Oka, was raised in Hawaii, but settled in Cincinnati. The young women are proud of their German-Japanese-Hawaiian- Chinese-Filipino-Spanish ancestry.
Their grandmother made the pretzels when their father was young, but they use a recipe developed by a cousin. The sisters say German pretzels are not difficult to make, but take several steps. Young and old will have fun shaping them in the traditional twist or in another original shape.
Legend has it that centuries ago, a royal couple used a pretzel at their wedding to symbolize their new bond. Some feel this is the basis for the saying “to tie the knot.”
The recipe calls for two types of flour — bread flour and all-purpose. The dough is mixed until soft and manageable, but not too sticky. After it’s allowed to double in size, the dough is shaped into a long rope and twisted into a pretzel knot.
The pretzels are boiled in an alkaline solution before baking, similar to the way bagels are made. That liquid solution traditionally is made with lye (sodium hydroxide), but because lye is corrosive it can be dangerous if used improperly in home kitchens.
The Okas substitute sodium bicarbonate — common baking soda — which is an alkali, but milder than lye. The baking soda first goes into the oven for an hour, a process that removes water and strengthens the baking soda’s alkaline properties. Then it’s dissolved in water, creating a solution that gives the pretzels a darker color and a chewier texture.
After a quick boil in the baking soda water, the pretzels are baked in a hot oven. The resulting pretzel is tasty just plain, and with the perfect chew, but some like to add coarse salt before baking — or melted butter after baking.
The Okas prefer to add a local touch by sprinkling Hanapepe salt from Kauai on top. They do not add melted butter, as they say it tends to soften the crust, especially if you are not eating the pretzels immediately.
Theirs is almost a full-proof recipe, but Nikki advises checking the freshness of your yeast — as expired yeast once resulted in failure for them.
Traditionally in Germany, the savory pretzels are served with whole-grain mustard and, of course, a stein filled with beer. Prost!
GERMAN PRETZELS
1/2 cup baking soda
1-1/4 cup warm water (105 to 110 degrees)
2-1/4 teaspoons instant or active dry yeast (1 packet)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1-1/2 tablespoons light brown sugar, packed
2 cups bread flour
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 to 2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour
Cooking spray or neutral oil, as needed to grease bowl
2 quarts water
Optional: Coarse salt for sprinkling tops, melted butter
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking tray with foil. Sprinkle baking soda onto baking tray; bake 1 hour, then remove from oven; set aside.
Meanwhile, make dough: In a mixing bowl, combine warm water, yeast, butter and brown sugar. Stir to combine, then set aside
5 to 10 minutes, until mixture begins to get foamy, a sign the yeast is activating.
Add bread flour and salt to yeast mixture; mix with a wooden spoon or dough stirrer.
Add 1 cup all-purpose flour. Gradually add remaining flour, 1/2 cup at a time until a soft, smooth dough forms (you may not need all the flour). It should remain slightly tacky, but not enough to stick to your fingers when touched.
Knead 5 to 10 minutes, until dough springs back when you touch it. You may use a stand mixer, but hand kneading is preferred so you can judge the readiness of the dough.
Spray a clean bowl lightly with cooking spray or oil and place the ball of dough in the dish, turning dough to coat with oil. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap or a clean towel. Set in a warm place until dough has doubled, 30 to 60 minutes.
Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees. Line 2 baking trays with parchment or silicone liners. Spray with cooking spray or lightly brush with oil.
Once dough has risen, divide into 8 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a 24- to 26-inch-long rope.
To form pretzels: Form a rope into a U, then take the two ends and twist them around each other. Finish by having the ends cross the U-shape, making a traditional pretzel shape. Pinch the ends to secure the design. Place pretzels on prepared baking pans.
Fill a large stock pot with water and bring to boil. Add baking soda. There will be a violent foaming, then it will subside. Keep water at a low boil.
Using a slotted spatula, lower a pretzel into the boiling water for
15 seconds. Flip the pretzel and boil for 15 seconds more. Place on paper towels to drain, then return to lined baking sheet. Repeat process, boiling pretzels one at a time.
If desired, sprinkle tops lightly with coarse salt. Bake 11 to 13 minutes, until deep golden brown. Midway through, turn the baking sheets. If sheets are on 2 oven shelves, swap them.
Remove from oven and brush with melted butter, if desired (if serving later, butter could make the pretzels soggy). Best served fresh and warm with a side of grainy mustard. Makes 8 pretzels.
Approximate nutritional information, per pretzel (not including optional salt or butter): 320 calories, 6 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 750 mg sodium, 55 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 3 g sugar, 9 g protein
Lynette Lo Tom, author of “Back in the Day,” is fascinated by old-fashioned foods. Contact her at 275-3004 or via instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.