The telltale signs of a cheesecake expert:

1. You always have cream cheese in your refrigerator – “just in case.”

2. You always have a finished cheesecake in your freezer.

3 When you go to parties, you are expected to bring a cheesecake.

4. People at work call you “Cheesecake Darrell.”

Darrell Chun Fat of Kaneohe has made hundreds of cheesecakes for friends and co-workers over the years and always gives them as gifts. By day, he works in facilities maintenance at the Rehabilitation Hospital of the Pacific. At night, he is a master baker.

It all started when a co-worker gave him a slice and the recipe, saying, “You should make it, it’s not difficult at all.”

Chun Fat loved the texture and taste. So he tried the recipe and was hooked by how simple it was and how much people would go crazy over the treat. That was more than 19 years ago.

Chun Fat has never sold a cheesecake and he likes it that way.

“Sometimes a new person will say, ‘Darrell, I need you to make me a cheesecake next Saturday for a party.’” He’ll smile and say, “That’s not going to happen!”

“Because I don’t sell my cakes, I can decide when I want to make them and what flavor. When someone criticizes my cake, I listen, thank them for their feedback and think — they are never going to get another one!”

Cheesecake is traditionally made with cream cheese, eggs, sugar and vanilla, baked over a graham cracker crust. Over the years, Chun Fat has perfected every step of this dessert.

Cheesecake Darrell’s creations are heavy and substantial. No light or fluffy versions for this perfectionist. For the crust, he uses cookies or crackers instead of store-bought crumbs, using a food processor to break down this ingredient to a fine crumb. For the filling, he learned to microwave the cream cheese before blending, to prevent lumps. For an even crust, he uses the bottom of a clear glass cup to pat down the crumbs.

To keep the top from cracking, he uses a water bath. To check if a cheesecake is done, he whacks the side of the oven to see if the middle of the cheesecake jiggles.

Chun Fat has experimented with different crusts and flavors of fillings and toppings. Everyone in his family has a favorite: plain with raspberries, peanut butter, lilikoi, pumpkin with gingersnap crust, Oreo, chunky Chocolate Decadence … For his niece he makes a unicorn version with pink- and white-coated animal crackers in the crust and multicolored sprinkles on top. He has even received requests to make ube-flavored and Key lime cheesecakes.

His frozen cheesecakes have been transported to neighbor islands and the ninth island of Las Vegas. During the holidays, he bakes five a day, using just one oven. On a normal weekend, he’ll create two a day.

One thing he insists upon is that people slice the cake with a knife dipped in hot water. The blade must be wiped clean after each cut so each slice looks good. His family knows that good things are happening when Chun Fat says, “Get the hot water.”

CHEESECAKE DARRELL’S PLAIN CHEESECAKE

By Darrell Chun Fat

You’ll need a 9-inch springform pan, baking parchment, foil and a cooking-oil spray that contains flour, preferably Bakers Joy brand. You will also need a large foil roasting pan to create a water bath.

>> Filling:

• 5 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1 cup sour cream
• 3 tablespoons flour (optional)
• 3 large eggs
• >> Crust:
• 2 cups graham cracker crumbs
• 3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) salted butter, melted

>> Topping:

• 1 (21-ounce) can blueberry pie filling, fresh raspberries or strawberries

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment and seal pan (paper will stick out of the bottom).

>> To make crust: In a large bowl, combine graham cracker crumbs with brown sugar and cinnamon, then add melted butter. Press crust into pan, using the bottom of a glass. Press crumbs onto side of the pan 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up. Place a baking sheet on a lower shelf in the oven to catch any butter drips. Bake crust 10 minutes. Let pan cool on a rack.

>> To make filling: Unwrap cream cheese and microwave 30 seconds. Place in large bowl; add sugar, vanilla and sour cream. For a cake-like texture, add flour. Combine ingredients, then mix in eggs, one at a time, being careful not to over-blend.

Spray sides of springform pan with a baking spray with flour. This helps with removal after baking. Do not skip this step! Wrap bottom of pan with 2 sheets of foil to keep water out. Add batter.

Fill large foil pan halfway with tap water. Place in oven, then place springform pan in water. Bake about 90 minutes, or until top turns a nice light brown. Center should jiggle slightly.

Let cheesecake cool on a rack for at least an hour, then cover with a paper towel (not plastic wrap, it will create condensation) and refrigerate 24 hours to set.

Add topping just before serving. Dip knife in hot water to slice. Wipe knife clean and dip in hot water again for each slice. Serves 12 to 24. Keeps well refrigerated for a few weeks or for 3 months in the freezer (wrap tightly in plastic wrap, then foil).

>> Tip: If your cake cracks, wait until it cools, smooth the crack with the back of the spoon and cover with topping.

Nutritional information unavailable.

Lynette Lo Tom, author of “The Chinese Kitchen,” is fascinated by old-fashioned foods. Contact her at 275-3004 or via instagram at brightlightcookery. Nutritional analysis by Joannie Dobbs, Ph.D., C.N.S.