On Tap in Hawaii: Travel time, expense keep many favorites out of isles
As the owner of a beer shop I get asked a lot of questions about beer. It’s honestly one of the things I love most about my job. So many breweries are making so many types of beer that there’s always something new to learn and pass along to a fellow fan.
Hawaii has access to hundreds of brands from around the world, but thousands are unavailable here. The No. 1 question we are asked is whether we carry so-and-so brewery from so-and-so state. Many times the answer is no, and people are often surprised to hear that their favorite beer from their home state isn’t on hand.
As we all know, getting anything to Hawaii is not only expensive, it also takes more time. When it comes to beer, those two factors are why many of the nation’s largest and most sought-after brands are absent from Hawaii shelves. In fact, according to information from the Brewers Association, only 12 of the 50 largest craft breweries in the country are represented in Hawaii.
Have you ever noticed, for instance, the scarcity of beers from breweries east of the Rocky Mountains? Attribute that to the substantial commitment of time and expense it would require to get the products across the continent and then across the ocean. For many breweries, the sheer logistics — in addition to cost — of getting beer to the isles quickly (beer is perishable and at its best when it’s fresh) can drive up price so high it’s not worth selling in the state.
So what are some of the most requested brands? They range from large, top-rated breweries to much smaller ones that don’t sell outside their breweries. It’s unfortunate when I have to break bad news to customers, but on the bright side, there are always great replacements. Never be afraid to ask for recommendations. Some examples:
Pliny the Elder: The No. 1 requested beer is this double IPA from Russian River Brewing Co. in Santa Rosa, Calif., among the most sought-after beers in the world. It’s sold in only four states: California, Oregon, Colorado and Pennsylvania. With such high demand for Pliny the Elder and it’s bigger triple IPA brother, Pliny the Younger, the brewery can’t expand distribution. Try instead: Heretic Brewing’s Evil 3 triple IPA and Evil Cousin double IPA. They are both bone dry with very light malts, and are heavily hopped like Pliny.
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90 Minute IPA: Dogfish Head Craft Brewery was the 13th largest in the country in 2018, yet not a single one of its beers is sold in Hawaii. At least once a week, we are asked about Dogfish’s classic IPA. It is hard to replace, but give Knee Deep Brewing’s Hoptologist a try. It’s almost identical in color, alcohol by volume and aroma, though it has a touch more bitterness and malt sweetness in the finish than 90 Minute.
Left Hand Brewing Co.: Remember how I said east of the Rockies? You may also have noticed that few Colorado brews are available here, even though Colorado is one of the biggest brewing states in the country. Chalk that up to location: Most of the breweries are on the east side of the mountain range, including Left Hand. This brewery is widely known for its Milk Stout Nitro, another beer that’s front-of-mind. This dark and creamy stout is loaded with roasty chocolate notes and a thick, pillowy head that’s ultra smooth. A great alternative is Belching Beaver Brewing’s Beavers Milk Stout Nitro. Just like Left Hand’s offering, Beavers nitro should be poured hard out of the bottle to activate the nitrogen gas in the liquid to create those tiny, smooth bubbles and creamy head.
Tim Golden, a certified cicerone, shares his obsession with all things craft beer on the third week of each month. He is part owner of Village Bottle Shop in Kakaako.