Hawaii has long had a bond with Tahiti, dating to the migration of the Polynesians to Hawaii from the Marquesas Islands as early as A.D. 300.
In 1976, master navigator Mau Piailug and the crew of the Hokule‘a sailed to Tahiti using only Polynesian star charts and bird movements as their guide.
Of course, it is a lot easier to just fly there. That is what my wife, Margaret, and I have done the last couple of years to take two cruises through the islands of Tahiti, or as they are officially known, the Society Islands of French Polynesia.
Several cruise lines pass through these islands, but two sail there year-round — Paul Gauguin Cruises and Windstar Cruises.
We chose the Paul Gauguin, a good fit for travelers from Hawaii as its seven- and 14-day cruises start and end on Saturdays. That ties in perfectly with Hawaiian Airlines’ once-a-week Saturday flights to Tahiti.
IF YOU GO: CRUISING TAHITI
>> Paul Gauguin Cruises: Seven-, 10- and 14-day cruises through French Polynesia and occasionally the Cook Islands and Fiji. Rates vary but start at $4,945 for a porthole stateroom. Once-a-year off-season rates available to Hawaii residents via travel agents.
>> On the Net: pgcruises.com
>> Phone: 800-848-6172
>> Windstar Cruises: Seven-, 10-, 11- and 18-day cruises through Tahiti and the Tuamotus Islands. Rates start at $4,199.
>> Website: windstarcruises.com
>> Phone: 844-632-6145
>> Hawaiian Airlines: Direct flights from Honolulu to Papeete every Saturday.
>> Website: hawaiianairlines.com
A seven-day Paul Gauguin cruise starts at $4,945 for a porthole stateroom to $11,245 for the grand suite (includes food and drink; shore excursions extra). The ship holds 332 passengers in very nice cabins with queen-size beds, full bathtubs, refrigerators and plenty of closet storage.
To spend some extra time in Tahiti, Windstar Cruises sails the 148-passenger, four-masted Wind Spirit, powered by both diesel engines and sails, capable of speeds up to 15 knots. Most of their departures are on Thursdays, but some are on Sundays and Mondays.
Both our cruises started in Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia, and traveled to Huahine, Tahaa, Bora Bora and Moorea.
Huahine
At just 30 square miles, the island of Huahine is split into two parts connected by a short bridge.
On our first stop in Huahine, we chose the Motu Picnic excursion, which took us under the bridge to the far side of the island. After stopping at the motu, a reef islet, for some excellent snorkeling, we had a unique lunch, sitting at a table in the water, eating poison cru and salads while hundreds of small fish swam around out feet. Then we went for a second round of snorkeling on the outside edge of the motu.
Tahaa
A little larger than Huahine, Tahaa is mainly known for vanilla production. During our morning drift dive, we rode the current as we snorkeled. It is a bit tricky because the water is shallow and you have to be careful not to run into the coral, but on our three attempts, the water was clear and there were a lot of fish.
Our afternoon was spent on Motu Mahana, a private island that turns into a big party when nearly everyone on the ship goes ashore to enjoy the beach barbecue and unlimited bar in a beautiful locale. (Windstar Cruises stop at this motu on their sailings as well.)
Bora Bora
On its seven-day cruise, the Paul Gauguin spends two days at Bora Bora as there is so much to do. Mount Otemanu and Mount Pahia rise out of the middle of a very blue lagoon. Many people consider Bora Bora the most beautiful island in the world.
Several small motus, surrounded by beaches and coral, circle the island. More than 800 bungalows have been built over the water, yet somehow it does not seem crowded, perhaps because the bungalows are so expensive occupancy is low.
We spent a morning shopping and exploring in the area around the main town of Vaitape but by the afternoon we found ourselves back in the water. There are several tour options — boat cruises, snorkeling and swimming with sharks and sting rays in the lagoon.
We opted for a lagoon cruise with three stops. First we snorkeled in 30 feet of deep water with lemon sharks and tropical fish, then we went into waist-deep water with black-tip sharks and sting rays. Lastly, we snorkeled in 10-foot water near coral to see even more tropical fish.
Moorea
Our cruise wrapped up with a stop in Moorea, where the ship stays two more days.
We rented a car and drove around the island.
I have been going to Tahiti for 30 years and I find Moorea is the island that has changed the least. There are few new resorts, and the bars and restaurants that I have enjoyed are still there.
My favorite area is Tiahura, famous for its shark and sting ray tours, and home to my favorite beach bar and restaurant, Les Tipaniers.
The Paul Gauguin got back to Papeete Saturday morning. We had to disembark by 9:30 a.m. but since our flight didn’t leave until about midnight, we opted to reserve a room nearby at Hotel Tiare. It was just a short walk from the cruise ship and allowed us to explore Papeete for the day.
Cruising through Tahiti for a week is the best that shipboard travel has to offer. Our only disappointment was leaving after a week, which we plan to remedy next year when we are take a two-week cruise.
Both cruise lines’ rates include airfare from Los Angeles. Inquire about discounts if you make your own travel arrangements from Hawaii. Cruise fares are more complicated and change more quickly than other forms of travel, and it may be a good idea to work with a travel agent.
Douglas Peebles is a photographer and travel writer from Kaneohe. He has been photographing Hawaii and the South Pacific for more than 30 years; 50 photo books feature his images of the islands.
Correction: An earlier version of this story misidentified the master navigator on the 1976 Hokuleāa voyage to Tahiti as Nainoa Thompson. The navigator on that voyage was Mau Piailug.