The combination of good food and a great view is difficult to beat anywhere, but especially in Hawaii. Restaurant 604, near the Arizona Memorial, fills the bill on both counts. Add to that a friendly, aloha-spirited vibe, and free and plentiful parking, and you’ve got a place well worth repeat visits.
THE EXPERIENCE
Operated by Donovan Maples, who managed a Sam Choy’s on Hickam and an Outback Steakhouse in Kapolei, Restaurant 604 sits on the site formerly occupied by Schooners.
The “604” in the name is taken from a building number that the Navy assigned to it. Maples says the restaurant recently celebrated its first anniversary.
From its second-floor location, Restaurant 604 offers a spectacular, soothing view of a marina, the expanse of Pearl Harbor waters and the Waianaes. We were there on a breezy day and there was a flotilla of small sailboats racing around, but even without them, it would have been plenty relaxing to just focus on the water’s edge, where a school of bonefish was mingling at that moment. Maples said they hang out there so frequently that fishermen will come by for an easy catch, though it’s not a real fishing spot and he’ll chase them off if there are too many. (Eating fish from Pearl Harbor is not advised anyway.)
RESTAURANT 604
>> Where: 57 Arizona Memorial Drive
>> Info: 888-7616, restaurant604.com
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Happy (“Aloha”) Hour: 3-5 p.m., daily, except Mondays and Thursdays during NFL football season
>> Furikake fries, $3.50
>> Coconut Shrimp, $6
>> Half price on 16- and 22-ounce beers, $1.75-$3.50
>> Well drinks, $3
>> House wines, $4
The decor is local, but modern — a really nice touch when you consider how many places try to recapture “old Hawaii” and just wind up looking tacky instead. Rather than reprints of old posters and black-and-white photos, glossy metal prints of waves and beach views hang on the walls. The surfboards hanging from the rafters, rather than being relics of past battles at sea, are shiny and new enough to make you want to grab one and paddle out.
There are plenty of flat-screens near the bar for watching sports, but there’s also seating where they’re less visible and you can enjoy the view. Restaurant 604 offers music daily starting at 4 p.m., all the better for tearing yourself away from the tube.
THE FOOD
Food here is not expensive to begin with. Maples said he leases the site from the Navy’s MWR (Morale, Welfare and Recreation) network and feels a responsibility to make things attractive and affordable for service personnel, while everyone is welcome. During happy hour, half-price discounts on several pupu items make the food here an even better bargain.
I enjoyed the Kalua Pork Nachos ($6, usually $12), which featured some of the better-tasting pork I’ve had on this kind of dish. I often find it too salty. It was spiced up with cheddar and jack cheese, salsa and chipotle.
There was also zing to the Crispy Calamari ($5.50 during happy hour), spiced up with pickles, onions and a Cajun remoulade dip.
Thai spring rolls ($4.50 for happy hour) added a nice finishing touch.
THE DRINK
Drinks are a good bargain here, too, especially during pau hana, with half-price discounts on a nice selection of beers ranging from Coors Lite to Kona Brewing Co.’s Koko Brown in 16- and 22-ounce sizes. Normal prices are from $3.50 to $6 for a 16-ounce mug. Add about $1 more for a 22-ounce glass.
Restaurant 604 offers several specialty cocktails at $8 during happy hour. I will have to try their signature mai tai, called “It’s 6:04 Somewhere.” It features Matusalem Rum, which originated in Cuba and is now produced in the Dominican Republic.
For a real bargain, pau hana here offers $3 well drinks and $4 house wines.
What is not on discount is 604’s Bloody Mary ($12), which is the restaurant’s primary specialty. Made with the restaurant’s own peppery mix and topped with a virtual salad as garnish, it goes down great on a hot day.
THE VERDICT
Restaurant 604 is a good pau hana option, and the word is out: Plenty of locals have the inside scoop on it and drop in regularly here, though Maples doesn’t advertise much beyond social media because of 604’s connection to the military.
As a pau hana site, its only issue is location: Unless you’re a west-side commuter, it’s somewhat out of the way to get there during rush hour. Fortunately, pau hana is offered daily, so it can a good place for a weekend bite, too.
If you find yourself bringing friends to sightsee at the nearby historic sites, you really have no excuse not to bring them there. Get there later in the day, when the live music starts, and everyone will have a good time.