As far back as the 1400s, the village of Kekaa flourished in what is now the Kaanapali Beach Resort. Farmers grew crops in the fertile land, including taro, breadfruit, bananas and sweet potatoes. Fishermen launched canoes from the beach, which also served as a training ground for warriors to hone their skills in competitive games.
During the early 1900s, mango trees dominated the landscape, their succulent fruit enjoyed by the plantation families who had settled in the area, which was then called Kaanapali Landing Camp. Sammy Kadotani’s family was one of them.
Kadotani was a mentor of Karee Carlucci, program director for Maui Nei Native Expeditions (see sidebar). Before he died a few years ago, he told her many stories about life in the camp.
KAANAPALI HISTORY & LEGENDS TOUR
>> Meeting place: South end of the Maui Eldorado Resort, 2661 Kekaa Drive, at the Stones of Moemoe and Wahine o Manu site marker, Kaanapali Beach Resort, Maui
>> Days: Daily except Thursday and Friday
>> Time: Meet promptly at 8:45 a.m.
>> Cost: $46 per person 13 and older, $23 for children age 6 to 12, kids under 12 are free
>> Phone: 661-9494
>> Email: mauinei@mokuula.com
>> Website: mauinei.com
>> Notes: Wear a hat, sturdy walking shoes and cool, comfortable clothing.
>> Parking directions: From Honoapiilani Highway 30, turn onto Kekaa Drive. Behind the Fairway Shops, take a left at the intersection toward the mountains and turn right into the office complex parking lot with the monkeypod trees.
“For example, he described how as a young boy he took care of the hogs that his family raised,” Carlucci said. “He said they were fed pineapples that were not sold for human consumption, which is why people in the camp said the meat had a sweet flavor.”
Carlucci has “talked story” with many Hawaiian historians, cultural practitioners and elders like Kadotani to discover what life was like in this West Maui district long before construction of the Kaanapali Beach Resort started in the early 1960s. She has also pored over books, documents, photographs and renderings to bring Maui Nei’s projects to fruition, including the Kaanapali History and Legends Tour, which launched a few months ago.
“The moku (district) of Lahaina encompassed what we know today as the town of Lahaina and the resort of Kaanapali,” Carlucci said. “Maui Nei began with tours in Lahaina, and it was natural for us to expand to Kaanapali because of that connection.”
During the Kaanapali History and Legends Tour, participants visit nine historic sites at a leisurely pace, enjoying legends, lore and spectacular views of the ocean, Lanai, Molokai and the West Maui Mountains along the way. Here are a few highlights of the two-hour, 2-mile walk.
Battle of Koko o na Moku
Before High Chief Kekaulike died around 1736, he designated his younger son, Kamehamehanui, as heir. His older son, Kauhiaimokuakama, was not happy about that decision, and in 1738 his army began battling his brother’s forces for control of Maui.
At the time, Kaanapali was covered with taro patches nourished by an ample supply of water flowing from the summit of Puu Kukui in the West Maui mountains. So fierce was the fighting in those taro fields, the legend goes, the blood of dead and wounded warriors was carried by streams into the ocean, turning the beach red. Thus, the battle became known as Koko o na Moku (“Blood of the Islands”).
When Kauhiaimokuakama was killed, Kamehamehanui emerged the victor, and he ruled in peace and prosperity for more than two decades.
Koko o na Moku Racetrack
During King Kalakaua’s reign in the late 1800s, a track for horse racing was built on Kaanapali’s long, wide beach, complete with a grandstand and VIP bleachers. It was called Koko o na Moku because it was situated near the area where the famous battle of the same name took place.
Kalakaua was dubbed the “Merrie Monarch” for good reason: He loved fun of all sorts, including gambling. He and his entourage were among the hundreds of people who gathered at the racetrack on weekends to place their bets and cheer on their chosen steeds.
The last race at Koko o na Moku was held July 4, 1918. World War I ended four months later.
Puu Kekaa and High Chief Kahekili
The lava promontory beside the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa is popularly known as Black Rock, although its actual name is Puu Kekaa (“rumbling hill”). Inspiration for that name supposedly came from the thunder of rocks rolling down the cliff — loosened, it was said, by spirits that lingered there. Puu Kekaa is a sacred ka leina a ka uhane, a place where souls leap into the next life.
In spite of that, it was one of High Chief Kahekili’s favorite spots for lele kawa (cliff jumping). Because of its connection to the supernatural, many warriors were frightened and would not engage in the sport at that promontory.
But Kahekili, who ruled Maui from 1766 to 1794, proved his prowess and courage again and again by making daring leaps into the ocean from Puu Kekaa. Courtesy of the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa, a brave youth re-creates that dramatic feat every day at sunset.
ABOUT MAUI NEI NATIVE EXPEDITIONS
The 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization Friends of Mokuula was established in 1995 to restore, preserve and educate people about Mokuula Island and Mokuhinia Pond in Lahaina. Mokuula was the home of Maui’s high chiefs from the 16th to 19th centuries. Between 1830 and 1845, when Lahaina was the kingdom’s capital, Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III) ruled Hawaii from there.
Through authentic Hawaiian cultural tours planned and implemented by its Maui Nei Native Expeditions educational program, the Friends of Mokuula are raising awareness about significant historical sites in West Maui.
In addition to the Kaanapali History and Legends Tour, Maui Nei offers Discover Old Hawaii, an interactive experience focusing on traditional arts such as bamboo nose flute making and printmaking with natural dyes, and the Lahaina History and Culture Tour, which leads participants off the beaten path to learn about pre-Western-contact Hawaii, alii (royalty), missionaries, whalers and the plantation era.
Tours last between two and four hours; adult prices range from $46 to $150 per person. To book or for more information, email mauinei@mokuula.com or go to mokuula.com.
Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi is a Honolulu-based freelance writer whose travel features for the Star-Advertiser have won several Society of American Travel Writers awards.