Fleetwood Mac drummer Mick Fleetwood makes a permanent home for himself on Maui, and he’s built up a polished, attractive warren in Fleetwood’s On Front St., a Lahaina establishment offering up fine food, wine and rock ’n’ roll.
The bar and restaurant will celebrate a fifth anniversary in August. I first visited in June, when Fleetwood’s added a new attraction: the Morrison Hotel Gallery Maui, a shrine to rock photography featuring the work of ’60s University of Hawaii-Manoa alumnus and gallery co-owner Henry Diltz. I wrote about Diltz and the gallery, and Fleetwood met me there, saying that when he’s not touring, he becomes restless. And so he created Fleetwood’s, where blues-rock blends with the good life.
Fleetwood’s On Front St.
744 Front St., Lahaina
fleetwoodsonfrontst.com
808-669-6425
Happy hour:
2-5 p.m. daily
>> Oysters, $1
>> Poke, $8
>> Flat Iron Sliders, $12
>> Cocktails, wine, half-price
Upstairs from the gallery, a glowing bar beckons, with the promise of sophisticated tastes. There’s a compact room and stage for live music, where Fleetwood often holds court along with musical friends such as Willie K, Steven Tyler and crack guitarist Rick Vito, a member of the Fleetwood Blues Band. I determined I would check out the bar’s happy hour as soon as I could, and when I got the opportunity to visit Maui friends, I made a Saturday-afternoon beeline for Fleetwood’s. I wasn’t disappointed.
The experience
Happy hour is offered every day from 2 to 5 at Fleetwood’s, and it’s an attractive proposition. Come early to get a seat; as the afternoon goes on, the bar fills with passers-by and regulars drawn by the promise of fresh oysters for just $1 each, and wine and cocktails at half price. It’s a great offer.
The sun glitters off of the ocean, right across Front Street, and seats by the windows are infused with afternoon light. The surfaces are comfortable and contemporary, with a long bar, slate-colored, high-topped tables spaced closely to encourage shared conversations, comfortable booth seating and exposed pipes and beams on the ceiling.
As with much of Lahaina, the clientele is likely to be a mix of visitors and mainland transplants who now live on Maui. I spotted a couple of long-haired guys who were at the bar, in the same seats, the last time I looked in.
Everybody was smiling on this Saturday afternoon — and why wouldn’t they be, with the wine flowing?
The food
The oysters served by Fleetwood’s on my visit were fresh-flown Washington state imports, impeccably chilled and served topped with icy, briny water. Lovely.
I followed those up with the lounge menu’s ahi poke, also ultra-fresh and made with sushi-grade ahi. Served in a small bowl, it was tasty and well-priced at $8.
To venture beyond seafood, I tried the Flat Iron Sliders, served as a set of two for $12. These were tasty but not remarkable, made with flat-iron steak bites topped with blue cheese, caramelized onions and tomato jam inside a sweet-bread roll.
The afternoon special — plump mussels in a garlicky butter sauce — was a better proposition at $11. These paired really well with Fleetwood’s special brand of chardonnay.
The drink
Half-priced wine and cocktails make for a great reason to hit Fleetwood’s happy hour, and the menu includes a selection of wine labeled from Mick Fleetwood’s Private Cellar. I wondered whether Mick’s wine had good taste, and with happy hour prices ranging from $8 to $10 a glass, this was a good time to find out.
I had a glass of the Fleetwood Chardonnay (normally $18), and found it rewarding, especially with oysters and mussels as a complement. This chardonnay from Santa Barbara, Calif., is made in the new style, with a mineral tang and touch of sunny gold, rather than overwhelming, oaky mouthfeel.
The servers are happy to provide a taste of any wine on the menu, too, so I tried out the “Red Ransom” Red Blend, also from Santa Barbara vineyards. I actually liked this wine even more, with its full, layered tastes, but thought the chardonnay was a better match with my food.
If you’re more a cocktail person, several drinks normally offered at $15 are also on special, among them the Fleetwood Smash: Ketel One Oranje Vodka, Kula strawberries, Thai basil, syrup and fresh lemon juice. Sounds pretty good.
There are also nearly 30 bottled beers available, with a healthy selection of craft beers. The four beers on tap came from Kohola Brewery, a new Lahaina microbrewery, and the Maui Brewing Co.
The verdict
If you love rock music, you’re all the more likely to feel the thrill, but the good food and great value in sampling Fleetwood’s drinks menu are reason enough to make this a must. I would recommend Fleetwood’s for anyone who wants to feel they’ve got it made, if only for an hour or two.
Finish off your happy hours with a visit to the Morrison Hotel Gallery, at the ground level. The gallery hosts “Long May You Run: A Neil Young Retrospective” through Jan. 30.