I’ve been watching the space for Moku Kitchen take shape over the past year, as construction on Kamehameha Schools property in Kakaako transforms the neighborhood from a light industrial area to a hip, urban residential-retail destination.

The timing for Moku, an offshoot of chef Peter Merriman’s Monkeypod Kitchen, at the new SALT at Our Kakaako retail complex, couldn’t be better. Residents are finally moving into The Collection, the new, high-rise town-home residences that replaced the former CompUSA next door. Dining options in the area have been growing as various businesses hopscotch around the neighborhood finding permanent locations, and residents who call this place home begin to pour in.

The experience

It’s exciting to walk into a new restaurant, and the space at Moku Kitchen is casual and welcoming. The interior is huge, by Hawaii standards, with more than 7,000 square feet of sprawling space. It has a contemporary, industrial feel with modern furnishings — a long, sweeping bar at center and plenty of seating in a well-lit space balanced by the warmth of wood and brick. The succulents in tall, ceramic pots are a nice touch. There is outdoor seating, too, facing the SALT courtyard.

While the space is welcoming, it is easy to get lost. Make sure a hostess seats you, if one is not at the door, or servers might not be aware of your presence. It took a while for us to get menus and place orders, despite a quick hello from our server, but during the latter half of happy hour, we started getting more attention.

There is live music starting at 4 p.m., and on the Friday we went, we enjoyed great tunes by Ka‘imi Hanano‘eau.

The food

What’s not to love about locally sourced, ranch-inspired pupu? At 50 percent off, happy hour is a great time to check out the small-plates menu, which features house-cut fries (served with whole-grain mustard aioli and house-made ketchup, $3 happy hour, $6 regular), wood-roasted wings ($7 happy hour, $14 regular) and roasted squash ravioli ($6 happy hour, $12 regular).

Every dish was presented well. Items with seafood (poke tacos and oysters) are not included in happy hour.

The fries, a pau hana staple, are served up crisp in a heaping pile and are available with garlic truffle oil for a little extra.

Free-range chicken wings have a kick to them and pair well with the tzatziki sauce offered.

The squash ravioli, sprinkled with chevre (goat cheese), spinach and walnut sage pesto, were sweet and filling.

All wood-fired pizzas ($12-$17 regular) are $9, with flavorful cheese and a delightful crust.

Dessert, though not on the happy-hour menu, is $8 for a generous slice of strawberry, chocolate mac nut, banana or haupia pie which is big enough for two or three to share.

The drink

Temptations abound when you peruse the list of “Moku Libations,” which are handcrafted cocktails featuring a tropical theme, but not the expected ones. Happy-hour price is $8.50. “Classics” (margaritas, mojitos and manhattans) are $5.50.

Since I love lilikoi, I enjoyed the No Ka Oi, light and sweet, a mix of ocean vodka, lilikoi, honey, lime and egg white served with Thai basil on top. The One Hundred Years of Solitude, with Campo de Encanto Pisco, macadamia nut orgeat and Banane du Bresil, sounds tempting for next time.

The verdict

While service was slow at first, the food, drinks and overall atmosphere here were nice enough that we would return, with friends, to try out more of the happy-hour menu. Moku Kitchen is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.