They do things a little differently on Molokai, including golf.
Ironwood Hills is nearly 80 years old. It has stood the test of time, and the golfer’s test to have a course they can play every day and never get bored.
What it lacks in maintenance and amenities — there is no electricity and you can’t buy balls or equipment anywhere on the island — it makes up for in tranquility and breathtaking views.
The clubhouse is a trailer, but there is no real need to go there.
“No need check in,” says regular Lloyd “Flash” Yonemura, a retired high school registrar. “Cheryl comes to find you on the course and get your fees. She sees the cars, and recognizes most of them.”
That would be Cheryl Tokuoka, who works at the course with brother Ted. They have overseen Ironwood’s operation since Darrell Rego, who holds the lease, moved to Kauai a couple of years ago to work as Wailua’s head pro.
The Tokuokas’ parents played Ironwood. So did the father of Ronald Nakagawa, a retired postmaster, another regular who helps keep the course beyond playable and more in the realm of flat-out pleasant.
This despite a “restroom” that consists of two porta-potties hidden in the trees on the second hole. Or, “just go behind the shed.”
Also, you can’t buy food or drink at this nine-hole layout that careens up and down at 1,450 feet of elevation on the Kalae Highway, not far from Kalaupapa Lookout.
You can pull up your car to the picnic tables covered a few years ago by canopies and fire up the barbie. Ironwood Hills is BYOE — Bring Your Own Everything, except clubs and carts, which are available to rent in the tiny trailer.
“It’s neat, laid back,” says Rego, who has held the lease for Ironwood since 1994. “When you get there you’re in a different … not world, but place. You know you’re not on Oahu or Maui. It’s something special over there, tranquil.”
By most accounts, the course was built in 1938 by California Packing Corporation, later known as Del Monte, to provide recreation for its pineapple workers. It might have been inspired by a “couple Del Monte guys who were Scottish.” Employees played for free and guests had a donation box.
Now, green fees are $34 for two trips around or $29 for club play. There are also discounted three-, six- and 12-month passes.
It began with five holes — or maybe three — that were fenced in since they were in a cattle pasture with a working dairy. It expanded to nine and has been open with one short exception in the 50s.
“The story was, Sophie Cooke lived in a mansion on the golf course with her husband George (Molokai Ranch manager),” says Dr. Paul Stevens, another Ironwood regular. “She heard people hollering and cursing so she had her husband close the course for a little while.”
Stevens, who has an Outpatient Clinic named after him at the hospital, is drawn to Ironwood Hills’ “lovely landscaping and views to the ocean on both sides.” The “signature” eighth hole, which heads dead up the mountain, offers the finest view, with No. 2 a close second.
Rego calls it a “unique old-style golf course” because it almost totally lacks level fairways. There are large eucalyptus trees and the par-34 layout can stretch to 3,088 yards, leading locals to insist it is harder than the old Kaluakoi resort course that closed several years ago.
Bunkers are deep and noticeably lack sand because “it blows away and it’s too expensive to replace.” Greens are mostly higher in the front than back, so the ball takes off.
Sometimes, all that can stop it is an animal dropping, and there are plenty.
“It is not only where people play,” says Eduardo Gorospo, “but where the deer and antelope play.”
It is all part of the beauty of Ironwood, where there is no need for starting times because there are no crowds, even during the busiest “winter” days.
You can play as fast or slow as you like and “foursome” is a phrase for the rest of the world. You can play Ironwood if you are 5, 95, or somewhere in between, and your whole family can play with you, along with the dog.
“To me, it’s like a mom and pops place where the whole family can play,” Cheryl Tokuoka says. “We don’t limit it to four. Families of 13 or 14 can play. We just tell them if somebody is behind let them through.”
It works, and it is immensely fun.
Maintenance is challenging. Rego made a dent in it when he was on Molokai. Now he relies on a remarkable bunch of volunteers who mow the fairways every Monday and move the pins every Friday. They work on the greens and clear up all the tree and deer droppings in between.
There is no irrigation, but the area gets its fair share of rain — 96 inches in 2014 — so Ironwood stays fairly green.
Just the way its devoted players, who are often its maintenance staff, like it.
“I don’t think anything in the state matches this,” Rego says. “It hasn’t been changed in 70-something years here. I kinda like the place. I took it under my wing to make it the best I could, did what needed to be done. But without the volunteers’ help it would not be there.
“Whatever money we make has got to pay for the operation, the lease is high. Without volunteers we would not be able to operate, plain and simple. They are doing it because they love the game.”