Inspected in its whole, fresh form, the olena is rather homely, a plain Jane at best. Like its relative, ginger, it is covered in a brown, papery skin that belies a vibrancy inside.

Just beneath that unassuming surface is a fibrous, juicy rhizome (an underground stem that grows horizontally, from which other shoots and roots can sprout) that’s spicy and lively in flavor and aroma, just like its cousin — only more so. Olena, the Hawaiian name for turmeric, is even more spirited, with its deep orange hue and pungent, floral flavor and heat. Those qualities make it vital to seasoning Thai curries and amping up the flavor profile of soups.

Leina‘ala Bright, a cultural health prevention specialist at Waimanalo Health Center, tries to get olena into her daily diet “every which way.”

“I infuse oil and cook with that, I make tea and ‘orange rice’ — just add chunks of it to the rice pot. My niece does that all the time, and her kids don’t even know rice is white,” she says. “I use it powdered as seasoning on everything.”

Bright has extensively studied olena, known as curcuma longa in the world of science. Her Hawaiian- Studies master’s degree thesis on traditional Hawaiian medicinal plants included olena. She says that in ancient times olena was used to treat sinus conditions and ear infections.

Today olena is known for its anti- inflammatory properties; Bright also calls it a natural immune-system builder. She makes a health tincture with olena that she uses as part of her work in laau lapaau, Hawaiian herbal medicine. Fresh olena can also be pounded and used as a poultice, she says.

In turning her thoughts back to the kitchen, Bright says the best way to approach olena is to think of it as we would ginger. It can be a component of stir-fries and added to stews. “You know how you put fresh ginger in chicken long rice? I just put fresh olena in with the ginger.”

Bright demonstrates the diversity of olena, processed in various ways, through one of her favorite recipes, an olena hummus. She incorporates olena-infused oil as well as powdered olena, both of which she prepares herself, with traditional hummus ingredients such as chickpeas, lemon and tahini.

She changes up the flavor of the hummus with different oils. Coconut oil adds a rich creaminess, creating an understated flavor, while olive oil allows flavors to shine through more prominently. The presence of powdered olena adds depth.

Bright invests the time to infuse the oils and roast the olena because as a practitioner of laau lapaau, she believes “food is medicine and medicine is food.”

Part of our responsibility, she says, is to understand basic ways to take care of our own health. That includes learning to grow a few plants and creating an herbal medicine cabinet.

“We talk about food sovereignty. I think we need to have medical sovereignty as well — we need to understand simple herbal medicine at home,” she says. “This is never to replace kahuna or people’s doctors. But diet is huge. It starts with that.”

Processing olena

>> Pounding: Pounding the rhizome helps break down its cellulose membranes, releasing its fragrance, flavor and nutritive properties. It’s important to mash the root just to the point that liquid is released; the juice should still be primarily in the olena. Pounded olena can be used in cooking and for making tea, and is the first step in roasting it.

>> Roasting: This adds a nice toasted flavor, which mellows the strong curcumin flavor of olena. Roasting also activates medicinal properties. Unlike other herbs, olena can be processed beyond the 115 degrees that destroys the medicinal properties of other herbs.

>> Powder: Bright makes her own olena powder by roasting or dehydrating the pounded olena, then grinding it to a fine consistency with a coffee grinder.

>> Tea: Olena is pounded, placed in a muslin bag, then steeped in boiled water just taken off the burner, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes. Tea that combines olena, ginger, lemongrass and chili pepper is healing and cleansing.

>> Infusing oil: To coconut or olive oil, add 1 small finger pounded olena, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, pepper and alaea (red sea salt), all to taste. Dry the ingredients before adding to the oil; excess water will degrade it. Lemon and salt are needed for preservation. Let infuse for 24 to 48 hours, then strain well. Keep in a cool, dark cabinet or refrigerate. Best used within a week. If oil takes on a strong rancid odor, discard.

Roasted Olena Hummus

Leina‘ala Bright’s hummus is available weekends at the Waimanalo Market Co-op, along with other olena products. Bright also takes special orders. The co-op, at 41-1029 Kalanianaole Highway, is open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sundays. EBT accepted. Call 690-7607 or email waimanalomarket96795@gmail.com.

Courtesy Leina‘ala Bright

1/2 cup tahini

3/4 cup fresh lemon juice (Meyer preferred)

4 tablespoons olena-infused olive or coconut oil

1/2 teaspoon alaea salt (red sea salt), or to taste

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 to 4 teaspoons roasted powdered olena, to taste

2 cups cooked or rinsed, canned chickpeas

6 tablespoons chickpea water (reserve liquid from cooking or from can)

In food processor, process tahini and lemon juice 1 minute. Scrape sides and bottom and process another 30 seconds. Add infused oil, salt, pepper and roasted olena powder. Process 30 seconds, scrape sides and bottom of bowl and process 30 more seconds.

Add half of chickpeas and process 1 minute. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl, add the rest of the chickpeas and process 1 to 2 minutes until thick and smooth.

Slowly add water to reach desired consistency.

Place hummus in bowl and drizzle with more infused oil. Sprinkle with more roasted olena powder. Serve with crackers or vegetable sticks. Serves 6 as an appetizer.

Approximate nutritional information, per serving: 280 calories, 21 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 400 mg sodium, 19 g carbohydrate, 5 g fiber, 1 g sugar, 7 g protein