The Nook Neighborhood Bistro opened in summer 2014 and quickly picked up a following due to its homey vibe and casual brunch offerings, which featured creative twists and an emphasis on sustainability. Given the great food, many of us longed for more.

Well, the time has come. The Nook quietly introduced dinner service over the holidays.

It’s taken them this long to secure a liquor license, which is what makes dinner service worthwhile. To put things into perspective, the menu features one page of food and three pages of drinks ranging from wines by the glass or bottle, draft and bottled beers, and cocktails such as a “Classic-ish Mai Tai” ($10) with bruleed pineapple.

Owners Hailey Berkey and Anicea Campanale score extra points for being among the few female restaurateurs able to make a go of their business in what’s still a man’s world. The pair of longtime friends provide diners with all the assurance they need to know service will run smoothly. Berkey works the front of the house while Campanale exercises her creativity in the kitchen.

Some diners wondered whether favorites from the brunch menu would reappear on the dinner menu, but Campanale didn’t want to repeat herself. She created a dinner menu that had us putting brunch behind us.

VEGGIE LOVERS will wonder why it took so long for anyone to turn fennel into tempura-battered frites made even more delicious when dipped into a curry aioli ($7). If you’re not sure you like fennel, start with the crunchy polenta fries served with a blue cheese and balsamic reduction or garlic Sriracha aioli ($7).

There’s not a single wrong note in the “First Bites” selections. It comes down to a matter of preference. Do you want the fresh, bright lime notes of Kauai shrimp and fish ceviche ($14) or the warmth of steamed clams in a broth of white wine, garlic, lime and chilies, with crumbled Shinsato pork sausage ($13)?

House-made pate ($9) is also wonderful, but the portion is skimpy considering they’ve done the work of spreading it for you on a few pieces of toasted baguette, topped with Ali‘i mushrooms and arugula.

The one dish I’ve come back to each time I’ve been here is the orange green tea chicken ($14), a bowl of tender fried Jidori chicken with a whisper of orange sauce, fried garlic and chilies, served with a small glass of “Sexpot,” the restaurant’s take on green tea. I’ve seen people order this dish as an entree, but I like to share as a little bit of fried chicken goes a long way. The only problem is that sharing the tea can be awkward. Hopefully, your friends will relinquish it to you.

All the First Bites work as late-night pupu for those looking for a pleasant place to hang out after a movie or show.

CAMPANALE’S Italian upbringing reveals itself in a dish of grilled asparagus layered with local sunny-side-up egg with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano with a splash of truffle oil ($9), worth ordering again and again.

We were a little confused by the Okinawan sweet potato gnocchi ($15), though. Instead of announcing the dish as “nyo-key,” our waiter said “nochi,” like “mochi.” When it had the chewy texture of mochi, we thought that was a clever play on words. When that was not the case, well then it was just bouncy gnocchi, which is not the desired state.

I’d also pass on the pastelone ($18), a nice attempt at a gluten-free “pasta,” by substituting the plantains of pastele, and topping it with a Big Island beef marinara and green olives, topped with cheddar and fontina. Unfortunately, the flavor and texture of the plantains wilted under the weight of the meat sauce and cheese.

All is well with the real pasta, a roasted vegetable linguine with bacon ($17). I was particularly enamored by the sweet roasted kabocha in the dish.

A couple of meat dishes will win over those who think this all sounds a bit too precious. I can’t get enough of the perfectly grilled rib-eye, served with wasabi creme fraiche and a baked Yukon potato with pork belly bits ($34). It is the best steak you can get here outside of a dedicated steakhouse.

I love pork belly more than beef, and the braised pork belly with a hint of cinnamon and sweetness of Asian pear gastrique ($23) is also wonderful, but it’s the steak that I’ve come back for every time.

Going light on dessert works for me, and for that, there is the yuzu sorbet. But if you’re not counting calories and are young enough to indulge, you must try the mochi churros served with a cup of killer Mexican chocolate.

BITE SIZE

Poke company offers ‘super’ special

Da Hawaiian Poke Co. has opened its doors at the Safeway complex at 870 Kapahulu Ave. and is offering a super introduction.

It’s taking pre-orders for a $60 Super Bowl platter that includes 1 pound each of ahi and tako poke, 1-1/2 pounds of ahi sashimi and three- quarters of a pound of the company’s delicious smoked ahi dip.

Orders will be ready for pickup on game day, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. Call 425-4954.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com. “Bite Size” documents the new, the small, the unsung.