There are only two ways to eat a turkey in Hawaii: after it has been brined and smoked, or it came from 12 hours smoking in an imu.

Chicago Tribune political columnist and curmudgeon John Kass has been prescribing turkey brining as one source of Thanksgiving happiness for years. Kass has gone so long with his turkey advice that this year he managed to get into a public spat with Missouri’s Sen. Claire McCaskill over whether men talk about brining too much.

What is not talked about in Chicago is how to imu a turkey.

Honolulu Star-Advertiser reporter Leila Fujimori today is already deep into preparations to drop 50 or more turkeys into her own imu.

"The first time, it was a big lesson in faith — you had to believe it was going to turn out," Fujimori said.

First you need a 4-foot-deep hole. Fujimori — who learned from watching videos of retired Kailua teacher Todd Hendricks, who every year does more than 500 birds — has been cooking turkeys either to feed friends and family or as part of a charity helping the Chinatown homeless.

Into the hole go scrounged wooden pallets that are stuffed with wadded up newspaper, which are then covered with kiawe wood. On top of that go specially selected rocks. The pile is set on fire and the blaze burns until the rocks go from red hot to white. Banana stalks are put down, banana leaves and ti leaves go on top. Then comes the food — trays of turkey or pork, although this year Fujimori reports she is also experimenting with a beef brisket.

All that is covered with wetted burlap and tarps.

Twelve hours later you open the imu.

"It is quite an experience; there is this feeling of hope and then when you open it, it is like a big present. For me it is a moment of relief because I have all these people on the line to feed," Fujimori said.

If digging a 4-foot hole is not in your plans, at least you should brine your turkey. It adds flavor and moisture; plus, it is almost foolproof. The Kass recipe is fine, but this one, adapted from a Weber cookbook, is better.

Mix two quarts cranberry juice, two quarts orange juice, two heads of garlic, crushed. Add one cup kosher salt, one quarter cup red pepper flakes, one quarter cup whole fennel seeds, four ounces sliced fresh ginger, six bay leaves and two tablespoons liquid smoke.

Boil the mixture and dump in four cups of ice cubes. When it is cool, add your turkey, stick it in the fridge or a cooler and leave it for 24 hours.

Rinse it off several times and then rinse it again. The mixture has, thanks to the process of osmosis, crept into your bird and you are ready to smoke it.

You don’t have to be a "Top Chef" contestant to smoke a turkey.

Some tips gathered from experience, however, include to make sure the propane tank really is full of gas; make sure the turkey is not touching the temperature gauge; and even when the thermometer says it is done, leave it in a tad longer because no one wants sashimi turkey.

Let it rest for a half hour.

Brined turkeys can be sliced while imu turkey is usually shredded. Both make for a wonderful meal.

Richard Borreca writes on politics on Sundays, Tuesdays and Fridays. Reach him at rborreca@staradvertiser.com.