If my little brother hadn’t raved about Tsukiji Fish Market & Restaurant’s generous pupu portions and good value, I would never have gone to the Ala Moana Center spot for pau hana, figuring that by the time I finished work and found parking, the window of happy-hour specials would have closed.

My husband and I were pleasantly surprised when we stopped by on the spur of the moment, famished, on a Wednesday evening after work.

On the way, I called to find out exactly where to go in the vast, under-construction mall. “You know Ho‘okipa Terrace,” said the nice receptionist on the phone. We didn’t, but following her directions, we drove up the Atkinson ramp to the fourth-floor level, just past Macy’s on the mauka side of the mall. We found ample free parking beneath a wide-open sunset sky the color of a mango daiquiri.

We walked up the stairs to the Ho‘okipa Terrace, identified Tsukiji by the fish paintings on its blue exterior walls and found the happy-hour window still open, with lower-priced specials served from 4 to 8 p.m.

The experience

We arrived at 6:45 p.m., although my brother had advised us to be there by 5 because the happy-hour seating area fills up quickly. You can reserve a table, but we weren’t sure what time we’d finish work.

We were promptly greeted by a friendly but mellow server, who didn’t pressure us to order right away.

The designated pau hana space, with windows facing an interior courtyard, is to the right of the entrance. There is seating at the bar, in red booths along one wall and at tables; we scored the last unreserved table. The roomy corner had a nice, intimate feeling, set off from the rest of the vast restaurant, which seats 400.

The restaurant’s overall look is industrial eclectic, with exposed beams and pipes in a vaulted ceiling, a concrete floor, lots of black and rust metal, red foliage paintings and dark wood.

The ambience was reminiscent of the late Fisherman’s Wharf, with a mostly local crowd of large family parties, young couples and groups of singles. Dress was casual, dominated by UH football and basketball shirts.

The drinks

Happy-hour specials on drinks were limited, but there were $3 bottled beer deals on Heineken and Heineken Light (regularly $5) and Bud Light (regularly $4). Regular drinks were reasonably priced, with Bud Light on tap at $3.75. My husband tried the daily special cocktail, a pineapple martini made with rum and vodka ($5; martinis are regularly $7) which, to his relief, was not too sweet. Its surface was covered in a thin layer of chopped ice, imparting a light, crunchy moment of shave-ice pleasure at the end of a hot day.

I had a glass of the Salmon Creek pinot grigio and then the chardonnay ($5 each). They tasted ordinary but serviceable and should have been better chilled. The pour was generous; I left more than half of the second glass. Next time, we’ll share a large bottle of Asahi or Sapporo beer ($9).

The food

A wide selection of Japanese-style food, tailored to island tastes, is the reason to have happy hour at Tsukiji’s; the seafood is fresh, and all the dishes we tried were flavorful and bargain-priced. Servings are generous.

We were served a huge mound of ahi poke ($7.95, regularly $13.90), with stacked red cubes of fish and crisp white onion on a bed of cabbage. Unfortunately, the shrimp chips surrounding the poke were soggy with sauce, which was a little too thick and sweet. Plus, the poke was too cold, as if mixed ahead and left in the fridge — a waste of fresh fish.

The delicate, lightly fried Shrimp Shu Mai ($3.95/ $7.90) and the Spicy Tuna Roll, with perfectly textured sushi rice ($4.95/ $9.90), were much better. Meaty Manila Garlic Clams, stewed in garlic butter lemon broth ($8.95/$16.90), were fabulous and plentiful, although two arrived unopened. When we didn’t touch them, the server insisted on replacing them, but forgot.

Crisp-Fire Ribs were the happy-hour star: a huge platter of dark, slow-cooked, boneless pork spareribs tossed in a hot-peppery ponzu sauce. My advice: Although they are many and scrumptious, eat no more than two. I had three pieces and woke at 2 a.m. in lead-belly distress.

The verdict

With its wide happy-hour window, Tsukiji is a great, unpretentious place to make a meal of heavy pupu with a group of friends. The food is fresh and affordable, thanks to the high volume of buffet dinners that the restaurant serves. My little brother, incidentally, is bigger than I am, but we would have needed my big brother to polish off our order. We’ll bring them both next time.