In light of the effects of sequestration and increased cost of living in the 50th state, I wondered whether Honolulu needs another high-end steak restaurant.

But look around at the construction cranes that have been appearing all over Honolulu, and that adds up to jobs. Unemployment dropped to a low 4.7 percent in May, and judging from the crowd filling a new seafood and steak restaurant, there are a lot of people who are willing to splurge after several years of deprivation.

I’m not talking pure economics. I believe there is a large segment of the population that has been starved for adult fare over the past couple of years. Maybe they’re tired of froufrou, progressive cuisine or uncomfortable ordering from food truck windows or sitting on folding chairs in warehouses. Maybe they never ever saw themselves as part of juniors’ pop-up scene. They just want the basics, served up with a touch of old-fashioned decorum.

Yes, the crowd at The Signature Prime Steak & Seafood restaurant skews older, the better to afford steaks that start at $44.95 for 8 ounces of prime filet mignon, and there needs to be at least 275 of them to fill the restaurant nightly.

So far, so good. The bar fills up first, from 4:30 p.m., when the bar menu is offered at 50 percent off such dishes as a steak salad ($15), ahi tartare with olive oil and capers ($14) and lettuce steak wraps ($13).

Hope springs eternal for the ambitious restaurateur Peter Kim, whom I met when he was just starting to build his Yummy Korean BBQ empire in the late 1980s.

Through the years, the Yummy Restaurant Group added a variety of fast eateries to its portfolio, including Lahaina Chicken Co., Chow Mein Express and Mama’s Spaghetti House. It all seemed to fit. Then, in 2008, Kim did something unusual. He bought Liliha Bakery when it seemed the business would go the way of other multigenerational mom-and-pops and close for good.

He expanded the product line, and longtime customers continue to show up for their Coco Puffs, now available in green tea flavor, as well as the original chocolate-filled, with a dollop of chantilly frosting.

I was surprised when he made another audacious move, aiming for the sky by opening Signature, on the long-empty top of the Ala Moana Hotel, the 36th floor that was once home to Aaron’s and Nicholas Nickolas. It’s been a while since anyone has attempted to fill a 8,150 square-foot space, and he’s done a wonderful job, with cozy booths open to amazing views of the ocean and city. On a recent Friday, patrons were eager to see the fireworks from the Hilton. Alas, other high-rises got in the way. No matter. The view is only part of the equation. The food is the main consideration.

Usually I build my columns from appetizer to dessert, following the typical flow of a meal, but here it feels most natural to get at the heart of Signature, which is its steak, 28-day wet-aged USDA prime grade cuts broiled to achieve the ideal tender center and snappy crust, without the unwanted bitter char. The first bites are always followed by a moment of silence as I’ve observed friends consider the texture, the juices, the touch of salt and hint of pepper, before releasing a contented sigh or audible "ummm."

The 24-ounce, $64.95 prime porterhouse is good, but my favorite is the prime bone-in rib eye (22 ounces, $55.95). Prime rib eye is a little more affordable, at $47.95 for 16 ounces. Men will devour the 22-ounce cut by themselves, but I can’t imagine eating that much meat in one sitting. It’s four times the daily recommendation. It’s possible to save your body and some cash by ordering a single steak and having the kitchen staff cut it up pupu style to share among friends or family. With all the delicious starters and sides, I’ve found four pieces of steak is all I need to feel full.

Those sides begin with a dish of truffle mashed potatoes ($8.95) that is complimentary with any steak order. Many people have told me of their love of the sweet creamed corn ($8.95) that starts with fresh kernels, but the silky lobster mac and cheese ($19.95), coated with Gruyere and Parmesan, with bits of crunchy bacon, is well on its way to the top of the list of my favorite foods.

Skip the cafeteria-style sauteed button mushrooms ($10.50). A place like this screams for a broiled medley of mushrooms.

The restaurant aims to impress with the Signature Seafood Tower ($49.95) comprising a Maine lobster tail and two claws, jumbo shrimp, sliced scallops and oysters on the half-shell. I prefer going the a la carte route, where you can pick what you want, such as a half-dozen oysters on the half-shell ($15.95), ahi poke ($14.95), seared New England scallops ($15.95) and crispy calamari ($11.95) drizzled with Thai chili sauce.

Lobster bisque ($11.95) is divine, and to add balance to your meal, there are salads: chopped ($9.95), iceberg wedge ($8.95) and Caesar (sorry, no table-side service, $8.95), as well as a refreshing spinach and strawberry salad ($11.95) with a light vinaigrette.

Seafood entrees include Maine lobster ($69.95), Alaska king crab legs ($47.95 per pound), miso butterfish ($38.95) that others have raved about and salmon ($34.95), but I have yet to explore this aspect of the menu. The steak always wins.

Naturally, there are nearly a dozen cocktails ($13) and a full menu of wines by the glass, bottle and half-bottle. "The Shake" ($13) can serve either as drink or dessert, comprising Absolut vanilla, Kahlua, Godiva chocolate liqueur and vanilla ice cream, topped with chopped macadamia nuts and cinnamon. Yum!

For a more solid dessert, there’s a melt-in-your-mouth chocolate buttermilk layer cake ($8), molten chocolate souffle ($13) and lilikoi creme brulee ($10).

The staff here aims to please. Once, I had to get to a movie and be out of there in one hour, when dinners here usually last about 2 1/2 hours. They delivered, and you never saw people eat so fast.

It looks like Kim has another winner on his hands. I wonder how he’ll top this one.

Nadine Kam‘s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.