There was a time not very long ago when it was difficult to find a good selection of great craft beer in Hawaii. Many of the great mainland breweries were not distributed here, and beer lovers had to bring their favorite beers back in their luggage.
A lot has changed. With more people choosing quality craft beer over a mass-produced product, breweries recognize that there is a market here for their beer.
I was especially excited to hear that one of my favorite breweries, Logsdon Farmhouse Ales, was going to be available in Hawaii for the first time this month. Logsdon has been crafting some of the best Belgian-style and sour beers in the country, in small quantities. So it was a great surprise to learn that they were expanding distribution to Hawaii.
Logsdon Farmhouse Ales is located on a small farm in Hood River, Ore., and is as artisan as it gets when it comes to beer making. With rolling green hills filled with grazing cattle, cherry orchards and snow-capped mountains, one could easily mistake its setting for the Belgian countryside.
Owner David Logsdon was inspired by the small farmhouse breweries of Belgium. The brewery at Logsdon is actually situated in a red barn with cellars dug into the hillsides for aging beer.
Logsdon was one of the pioneers of the American Craft Beer world. In the ’80s he co-founded Full Sail Brewing in Oregon. He later went on to start Wyeast Labs, which has grown into one of the largest yeast companies in the brewing world. Yeast are the magical organisms that ferment beer and provide not only alcohol and carbonation, but also a wide range of amazing flavors.
Logsdon spent years isolating unique strains of brewing yeast and bacteria that would produce one-of-a-kind flavors.
At Logsdon, he focuses on Belgian styles that incorporate these special strains of yeast and bacteria.
With a focus on using quality organic ingredients, many of which are locally sourced in Oregon, the small-batch beers from Logsdon have quickly become some of the highest rated, most sought after in the country.
You can expect the following Logsdon offerings on shelves at your favorite beer shop in late August.
» Kili Wit (about $13 for a 750-ml bottle): This Wit beer, or Belgian White, is purposely unfiltered to highlight the wonderful cloudy appearance caused by the large amounts of wheat used in the brewing process. Light on the tongue, with zesty notes of spice and hints of orange, this is the perfect beer for warm afternoons.
» Seizoen (say-zoon) (about $14): A traditional Belgian saison fermented with four yeast strains offers a complex layering of flavors. Bold, spicy notes of coriander and black pepper are followed by a ripe punch of pears, apples and Seville oranges. The flavors and aromas are distinct, but they all play together nicely to create a harmonious experience.
» Seizoen Bretta (about $15): This is a magnificent example of the magic of Logsdon’s yeast isolation. The base Seizoen beer is spiked with a strain of Brettanomyces (Brett) yeast and allowed to further ferment, creating a beer that is bone dry, crisp, and layered with tart fruit and spice flavors. Heavy carbonation akin to Champagne prompts flavors to dance on the palate and helps aromas jump out of the glass.
» Oak Aged Bretta (about $18): Seizoen Bretta spends time in oak barrels for added complexity and depth. Hints of wood, vanilla and smoke are imparted from the aging process, yet they don’t overshadow fruit and spice flavors.
» Straffe Drieling (about $14): This classic Belgian Tripel is one of my favorites. Malt and hops provide a clean background for the glorious flavors created by yeast. Slightly sweet and tangy dried apricot, peach and pear flavors and aromas dominate, while the vibrant carbonation helps create an airy mouthfeel.
Tim Golden shares his obsession with all things craft beer monthly in the Star-Advertiser food section. See his blog, “Beer in Hawaii,” at beerinhawaii.com.