In 2007, Chrissie Kaila Castillo had the prescience to open a little breakfast nook in Market City Shopping Center. The appearance of Cafe Kaila was a big deal to me because a few years earlier I had moved back into town from Kailua, where I was spoiled by the number of varied early-morning haunts, from delis to creperies.

It was a shock to the system to learn that — save for old-fashioned pancake houses and pricey hotel brunches — the city was a desert when it came to the casual, homey breakfast.

It would take another seven years for other restaurateurs to catch on, making 2014 the year breakfast happened in Honolulu.

Why it took so long for everyone else to realize that breakfast is big, I have no idea, but from the moment Cafe Kaila opened, lines formed and never let up.

Well, I’d say the population divvies up into people who are drawn to lines and those who prefer to avoid them at all costs. For the latter group a solution is in store now that Cafe Kaila is open for dinner three nights a week, Wednesdays through Fridays.

Yes, you can get supper fare such as salads, pizzas and meatloaf, but you can also bypass the morning line for a taste of Cafe Kaila’s famous Belgian malted waffle ($8) and pancakes ($9). For an additional $8.50, you’ll see those pancakes buried under a mound of fruit: sliced strawberries, blueberries, bananas and house specialty candied apple slices.

Just as in the morning, the aim is old-fashioned comfort, and the header on the menu is "Kaila’s Comfort Menu." What you’ll find are retro dishes such as chicken pot pie served in a ramekin topped with flaky pie crust ($8); meatloaf served with mushroom and onion gravy, great mashed potatoes and buttery steamed broccoli ($16); and gourmet mac and cheese ($8) with add-in options of lump crab meat ($3), chicken ($3) and crumbled hickory-smoked bacon ($2).

I imagined the amount of crab meat would be negligible and barely discernible against the strong flavors of six secret cheeses. But I was delighted to see the dish shot through with enough crab to fill each mouthful. For tasting purposes I ordered a separate bacon-filled version that was also yummy in a double-crunchy way when combined with the crisp breaded topping. You don’t have to choose if you opt to combine the crab and bacon.

Also on the menu is fried ravioli, filled with spinach and cheese ($6). Deep-frying makes it more like a finger-food pupu. Otherwise, I prefer my ravioli in boiled form. I am way beyond my 20s, so it just feels healthier to ingest foods that require no post-meal recovery time.

Portions will look small but dishes tend to be very rich and carb heavy to deliver maximum satiation, so give them a try before going overboard with ordering.

And talk about combining favorite ingredients, just add bacon ($2), tomato ($1) and avocado ($2) to a havarti- and cheddar-cheese panini ($6).

Round out your meal with some greens, including a Caesar ($8) with $3 chicken or shrimp options, a caprese with bocconcini and arugula ($10), and Kaila’s salad of lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, cranberries, walnuts, feta and raspberry vinaigrette ($11).

Families might entertain the kids with a quartet of 10-inch thick-crust pizzas. It’s $11 for a cheese pizza topped with mozzarella and Parmesan. Add tomatoes, pesto and basil for the Roma ($13). The Tuscan comprises sun-dried tomatoes, mushroom and spinach ($13), and the Italiano features Italian sausage, spinach and mushrooms ($15).

If you’re still craving breakfast, you can get two eggs in any style with fried rice, bacon and toast ($10), or fried chicken and waffles ($13). The chicken was a bit dry, but it was helped along with a dousing of kicky cayenne maple butter.

They’re big on dessert here, but for me the pancakes offered perfect closure. There’s no other time I can have them because I’m not inclined to wake up early or stand in line.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.