When I mention the word riesling, I’m often met with odd expressions. Sadly, over the years riesling has been categorized in what a friend called the "ugly duckling" section, meaning it is highly underappreciated. But I hope I can convince tasters that it can be a real swan.
Among those tall, slender green and brown bottles of German wines are great rieslings that are especially good with Asian-inspired foods.
Despite what many people think, not all rieslings are sweet. Whether a wine is red, white, pink or sparkling, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir or riesling based, all wines can be made dry, medium dry, medium sweet, sweet or dessert in style.
Riesling can shine in each style when grown in the right place and executed by the right winemaker.
Furthermore, when I was growing up in the wine industry, I was taught there were five "noble" grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and syrah for red wines, and chardonnay and riesling for whites. Distinctions like this aren’t haphazardly made.
At a recent tasting of new releases to the islands, the following three wines were standouts, each from exceptional producers.
A fun exercise would be to gather friends and taste these offerings side by side, not to choose a favorite, but to see how the soils and the winemaking style can affect the finished wine. Then try them again with Asian-styled pupu. This could open up a whole new horizon to your group of wine lovers.
» 2012 Gunderloch Riesling Dry (about $20 a bottle): Yes, this is a dry riesling, and it is drier than many of the chardonnays you may be drinking.
Produced from two vineyards, each with red slate hillsides gently rising from the Rhine River, this 2012 Gunderloch displays mesmerizing minerality. There’s nothing sharp or hard here, just lots of tropical-like fruit with a delicious mouth-feel. Try this wine with seared scallops, succulent lobster or crab prepared with a slightly Asian touch.
» 2011 Reinhold Haart Riesling "Piesport" (about $20): When my wife, Cheryle, and I visited the Haarts again last year at harvest, we were reminded how amazingly steep and breathtaking their vineyards are.
Tasting through their portfolio of wines, we also understood why Theo Haart was selected the 2007 Gault Millau "Winemaker of the Year." His wines have such purity, filigree and sophistication.
This wine is grown on steep, gray/black slate hillsides that rise up from the Mosel River. Its fruit nuances reference apple, pear and a little lychee, and because it is medium-dry in style, it works best with salty, spicy dishes. I enjoy the sweet-sour tension of this wine, especially well chilled on a hot day.
» 2012 Dr. F. Weins-Prum Riesling Feinherb "Estate" (about $20): This estate produces wines of finesse, precision and deliciousness.
Owner/winemaker Bert Selbach is a direct descendent of the iconic Prum family and therefore has a smattering of parcels from five of Germany’s finest vineyards. This particular bottling comes from three of those vineyards and is produced in a medium to medium-dry style. Tasters can have fun with this wine at many Asian-styled restaurants.
Selbach is essentially a one-man show, so I wonder who will continue his work when he retires.
Chuck Furuya is a master sommelier and a partner in the DK Restaurants group. Follow his blog at chuckfuruya.com.
