A name like Pioneer Saloon might lead one to expect grinds of the Wild West, such chuckwagon fare as hearty chilies, buffalo burgers, barbecue brisket and pork and beans. Doesn’t that sound good?

Alas, we must leave it to some other restaurateur to bring back a taste of old Americana. The only thing remotely Southwestern here is the heat of summer, and if it’s a watering hole you’re looking for, you can take your pick of soft drinks and Calpico, or head to a real bar.

There’s another kind of pioneering in place, as restaurateurs from Japan continue their eastward sojourn, adapting to local culture to deliver their own plate-lunch fusion fare. The result? Some expected dishes such as furikake ahi ($13) and mahimahi katsu ($12), as well as some juxtapositions you don’t see often, such as scallop katsu ($12), which is bland and not worth a second thought, and chili-tomato fried chicken ($9), an intriguing variation on Chinese sweet-sour, with the addition of tomato and spice cutting the cloying factor.

Pioneer Saloon is the vision of Rokkaku and Tokkuri-Tei veteran Nori Sakamoto, who has filled the space with Southwestern kitsch and then some, from deer skull to cowboy hat and swinging doors. 

It’s an eyeful, and I found it easy to be lured by the fun, homey environment, no-nonsense fare and affordable prices. So are a lot of people. Good luck getting a table and finding parking. There are three stalls on the side of the restaurant, and 10 times the patrons angling for the few spots available on Monsarrat Avenue and side streets.

There’s something of a general-store aspect to the restaurant as well. While waiting for meals to materialize, diners can browse through shelves of collectible glass bottles and vintage linens and other flea-market artifacts, as well as vintage shirts and the saloon’s logo shirts.  

All the flourishes would be moot if Sakamoto didn’t deliver on food, and you’ll also have fun exploring Pioneer Saloon’s vast menu. Just because the scallop katsu didn’t pan out for me, don’t give up on fried offerings. I enjoyed the oyster fry ($11), light and crisp with a panko coating.

Where many local plate lunches tend to be heavy on sauces, gravies and salt, there’s a lighter touch here, so if you’re dining family style, consider starting with ahi poke ($13) with a choice of wasabi or spicy mayo that you mix in yourself, or garlic ahi steak ($12), with a hint of garlic that might be lost as the meal progresses toward heavier flavors.

Popular hamburger steak ($9) is a thick, juicy patty that is surprisingly light and comes with your choice of ponzu or demi-glace. The latter is layered on thick, though virtually weightless and offering a mere veil of flavor. I appreciated the light touch. Those accustomed to richer sauces might not.

I was curious about "grilled salmon flakes" ($10) served with avocado and shiso, so I had to order it, and this turned out to be one of my favorite dishes. You might call it baby food, reminiscent of childhood, when your mom or dad fussed over everything you ate, meticulously cutting everything into bite-size pieces, removing bones and nasty bits. Here the cooked salmon is shredded, or flaked, and stirred in with rice, finely chopped shiso and a small dice of avocado. To this you add your choice of wasabi or spicy mayo for the perfect, simple comfort food.

Another star is the shio-koji chicken ($10), just as tender as the fried chicken mentioned earlier. Here it’s stewed in a rich sauce of salt-fermented rice malt and cream, with a buttery flavor that had friends dipping into the ambrosia over and over.

Prices are the same for lunch and dinner, and it’ll take a while to explore everything Sakamoto has to offer, from Japanese curries ($9 to $12) to rib eye and sirloin steak ($12), to loco moco in full ($11) and mini ($7) sizes, with gravy, teriyaki sauce or curry options.

Chances are good you’ll find me here again.

Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.