Nino Camilo could not find good poke in Southern California.
Although he was born and raised in San Diego, Camilo knows the taste of good poke, among other Hawaii-related things. He has family in Hawaii and visits often, and grew up surfing and dancing hula. His aunt and uncle own a store in San Diego, Motu Hawaii, which sells lei, ukulele and island treats.
After a quest to find restaurants and stores that make and sell Hawaiian food, Camilo created the blog ilovemusubi.com in 2009 as a directory for Hawaii expats living in California.
While befriending those relocated folks, he often heard the same complaint: Good poke was nowhere to be found.
"People would just throw things in a bowl and call it poke," Camilo said, describing how the dish had been served in the region. "I saw this huge void. And when someone has a craving for something, I want to satisfy them — find a restaurant for them, make something for them. It’s just how I am."
His solution? San Diego needed its own poke festival.
Armed with a background in marketing, Camilo launched the inaugural I Love Poke Festival in 2010 at a resort on San Diego Bay, to much applause.
He found sponsors, and the city’s top chefs were excited to participate. Photographer Clark Little (whom Camilo represents in California) agreed to be a judge.
The fourth festival was held last week. Over the years, the festival has garnered a following not just among expats, but San Diegans who regularly visit Hawaii. Chefs covet winning the title of "best poke" and, while paying homage to the Hawaiian origin of the dish, add their own personal touches.
Chefs compete in two categories, "traditional" and "any kine." The latter category is where creativity reigns. This year, festival-goers sampled a poke made with halibut dyed bright pink with hibiscus, an "Irish poke" dressed with Jameson whiskey and poke with pork belly and citrus flavors.
Practically anything goes, but all contestants are required to use only sustainably caught fish and post information on the origins of what they are serving.
Chef Robert Ruiz, who tied for first place this year, started his culinary career on the Big Island and was mentored by Alan Wong at Hualalai Resort. Ruiz acknowledged that San Diegans like their poke with different flavors, which is influenced by the prominence of ceviche.
"The real cultural influence is close to the border," he said. "People like a lot of spice and cilantro, and you’ll see the Southern California influence with the avocado and cucumber."
Inamona and certain limu are hard to find, so most chefs will make do with whatever fresh ingredients they can find locally.
Ruiz said Carlsbad Aquafarms, just north of San Diego, supplies farm-raised red ogo and hamachi. Otherwise, chefs who want to stick to traditional poke recipes order ingredients from Hawaii, including ahi and kampachi.
Camilo is aware that any poke in California cannot replicate the kind made in Hawaii.
"That’s like trying to find a good carne asada burrito in Hawaii; it just won’t happen," he joked.
But he insists the quality of California’s poke is improving.
He hopes such festivals can educate the masses while giving former isle residents a taste of home.
The I Love Poke Festival has been such a hit that Camilo expanded it last year to a second location in Huntington Beach to meet the demand for good poke in Orange County.
"People here just love Hawaii," Camilo said. "There’s a huge Hawaii-loving culture in California. We share the same passions" in food and lifestyle.
