Before the planet started heating up, temperatures here started falling in October to the point where we could dig out favorite sweaters and jackets from our closets. But in recent years the heat has continued well into December. Bad for fashion, but on the upside, we can enjoy outdoor barbecue well into fall, and Halekulani is treating travelers to this backyard experience through the end of the month.
"Barbecues from Around the Globe" takes advantage of the open-air, oceanfront House Without a Key setting by offering the outdoor meal from 5 to 9 p.m. Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays until Oct. 30. Diners are wise to saunter in early at the no-reservations restaurant for a bite just as the sun sets. There is many an abandoned table as the sunset gives reason for guests to rush out of their chairs to capture the moment via phone, iPad or camera. We tend to take this daily occurrence for granted, but most visitors never get that chance to capture the glowing orange orb over the ocean horizon.
As soon as you enter the house, you’ll be drawn to the smoky scent of kiawe-grilled beef and pork wafting from the grill.
The globally inspired menu was influenced by executive chef Vikram Garg’s international upbringing and training in countries all over the world, from his youth in India to life in the Caribbean and his arrival in Hawaii with our melting pot of Asian flavors.
Even though the time frame for the dinner offering is limited, I couldn’t resist the promise of such entrees as Lebanese lamb chop ($39) with tahini garlic sauce and pita, Jamaican jerk-spiced pork chops ($39) with mango and hearts of palm salsa, sambal-marinated catch of the day ($35) with coconut rice, and Hawaiian salt-crusted beef strip loin ($49).
Before getting to the main attraction, there are other unique appetizers to enjoy, such as a mash-up between a typical spicy tuna roll ($16) and a Vietnamese spring roll. Here, spicy ahi is rolled in softened rice paper with lettuce and mint and served with a soy-lemon dipping sauce. It’s very refreshing and perfect for a hot afternoon, weather also made for the restaurant’s frozen lemonade.
Saucy hot wings ($14) are served with sweet chili sour cream for those who need to tone down the heat.
And I really loved the cream kabocha and lemongrass soup ($12), studded with a mince of Portuguese sausage.
Otherwise, it was difficult to settle on a grilled entree, and though my guest chose the fairly rote baby back ribs with a sweet-sour tamarind-date glaze ($28), I found myself wavering among the Jamaican pork chops, kalbi short ribs ($29), Lebanese lamb chop, Boerewors South African beef and pork sausage ($29) and ginger-yogurt marinated chicken ($29).
In such instances I am drawn back to high school SAT exams. When you don’t know the answer, you just start eliminating. The sausage seemed most exotic, but I wasn’t in the mood for sausage. I had just had lamb recently, so wasn’t particularly hungry for that, either. I can eat kalbi anywhere, and I already have a favorite spot for Jamaican pork. That left the Indian-style chicken.
Because the grill setup is on the lawn near the tables, guests are welcome to take a look at what’s cooking before making any decisions. Garlic butter Kona lobster seasoned with Old Bay looked divine, but at $69 was a bit out of my budget.
The chicken also looked great, with its tenderizing yogurt marinade, and did not disappoint. It managed to be juicy with just the right amount of crisp and char on the outside. It was served with an aromatic mint dressing and Indian kachumber salad of tomato, cucumber and onion that was overly watery.
Of course, a barbecue meal wouldn’t be complete without sides, and here, options include cole slaw, potato salad, macaroni salad, mashed or baked potatoes at $8 each, and grilled asparagus for $10. Buttered corn on the cob ($8) was incredibly crisp and bore a touch of Old Bay seasoning.
For dessert, at $10 each, you could order Halekulani’s signature coconut cake, lilikoi and strawberry jelly Swiss roll or macadamia cheesecake, but guava and chocolate mousse made an impact in a beautiful glass with a thin layer of coconut water jelly, pineapple confit and a touch of gold.
As much as I love the seasons, there’s something to be said for an endless summer.
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Nadine Kam’s restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Advertiser. Reach her at nkam@staradvertiser.com.
